Though cooking a savory dish and preparing a pastry may require some of the same tools, the processes behind both are usually quite different. Where a savory chef can be creatively liberal, a pastry chef must often work with mathematical precision.
This exacting nature of pastry is what drew Chef Onika Brown, an Institute of Culinary Education graduate, to the world of baked delights.
Now the executive pastry chef at Metropolis by Marcus Samuelsson, located within the Perelman Performing Arts Center in Downtown Manhattan, Chef Onika brings her Caribbean roots to life through her creations. While the restaurant’s kitchen has a French inspiration, chefs at Metropolis are encouraged to infuse their unique flavor backgrounds into their dishes.
“At this stage in my career, I’m focusing more on my culture, especially being part of the Marcus Samuelsson Restaurant Group. Marcus allows me to be myself and express my heritage through my work,” Chef Onika says. “So, if I want to create a Jamaican or West Indian-inspired dessert, influenced by my mom, it’s welcomed and supported. My palate is evolving more towards my comfort zone, moving beyond just French techniques.”
Serving her parents at Metropolis remains one of Chef Onika’s most cherished memories. Cooking and baking have been staples in her life since childhood, growing up in Florida with her family. Her grandmother, who took charge in the kitchen, was a major influence.
“As a child, I was always cooking with my grandmother, aunts, and uncles. My grandmother, who cooked every day for everyone, is the reason I decided to become a chef,” Chef Onika says. “Those gatherings were filled with love, comfort, and a sense of community. Experiencing that from a young age made me realize that I wanted to be part of it when I grew older.”
While she loved to cook, one of Chef Onika’s favorite foods to make while growing up was monkey bread, a soft and sticky pastry that’s sweetened with cinnamon. This breakfast treat became a family favorite at gatherings, leaving lasting memories that inspired her pursuit of a culinary career. Eventually, this led her to enrollment at ICE, where she initially focused on savory cuisine.
However, when the curriculum shifted to pastries, Chef Onika fell in love with the precision required in baking. Her instructors emphasized that unlike savory cooking, where adjustments can be made on a whim, pastry demands exact measurements and careful balance.
In pastry, everything needs to add up perfectly, and that challenge made me want to pursue it further.
“With savory dishes, you can adjust by adding more acid, salt, or fat. But in pastry, precision is key—if you add something, you have to subtract something else because it’s like an equation,” Chef Onika says. “In pastry, everything needs to add up perfectly, and that challenge made me want to pursue it further.”
A pivotal moment in her education came when the class made and glazed chocolate cakes. Despite following the same recipe, each cake turned out differently, highlighting the nuances in technique and execution. After her time at ICE, Chef Onika further honed her skills during an internship at Bouchon Bakery in Rockefeller Center.
At Bouchon, a bakery operated by the renowned Chef Thomas Keller, Chef Onika had the opportunity to experiment with modernized French patisserie. The bakery’s extensive display case allowed her to showcase her macaron-making skills.
“We were producing about 6,000 macarons a day, focusing on efficiency and consistency. I love a challenge, so I was determined to perfect it,” Chef Onika says. “I’d start at 5 a.m., making the batter, piping, baking, and filling—all before noon. It was the earliest job I ever had, and mastering those macarons at Bouchon is something I’ll never forget. You never forget your first macaron.”
With fall approaching, Chef Onika is excited to work with seasonal ingredients like persimmon, pumpkin, and spices. She’s currently preparing a special autumn menu at Metropolis that’s still under wraps, so be sure to stop by and check it out if you're in the New York area!
