Ask the Experts: How Do I Bake the Perfect Pumpkin Pie?

Get professional baking tips just in time for Thanksgiving.
Cory Sale
Pumpkin pie

With the holidays approaching, Pastry & Baking Arts Senior Chef-Instructor Stephen Chavez answers common questions about baking the perfect pumpkin pie.

Pie Crust

What type of crust do you like with pumpkin pie?
My preference for pie crust is a flaky American pie dough or a classic pâte brisée. The bits of fat in the dough give a very light and flaky texture. If you’re making the dough, the biggest mistake someone can make with pie dough is overworking it. The more you mix the dough, the more gluten you create, resulting in a chewy and tough dough. It’s best to make the dough in advance and refrigerate it overnight before using.

Should I blind bake the pie crust?
I don’t usually blind bake pie dough, but it’s not a bad idea when working with a wet filling (like pumpkin pie filling). The wetness may cause the bottom crust to be soft rather than crisp. Blind baking the crust for 15-20 minutes can help avoid a soft crust.

Pumpkin Pie Filling

Do you prefer canned or fresh pumpkin for the filling? 
Most chefs use canned pumpkin because it is inexpensive, ready to use, and available year-round. That said, making your own is nice when pumpkin is in season and you have the time to cook and puree fresh pumpkin. Kabocha squash also makes a good pie!

Related recipe: Coconut Sticky Rice with Pandan-Poached Pumpkin

Ingredient quality always matters. If purchasing pumpkin puree, buy a high-quality name brand or non-name brand item from a reputable store like Trader Joe's or Whole Foods. Using generic brands tends to compromise the quality of the puree it is either bland and flavorless or watery.

What spices do you add to the filling? 
I use cinnamon (freshly grated or ground from the stick), nutmeg (freshly grated), ginger (freshly grated), clove (ground is good when used sparingly), and just a bit of cardamom for an “extra” flavor that will make your pie unique. When making pumpkin pie, I prefer freshly grated spices over ground spices because they have a strong flavor and aroma.

Do you add any other ingredients to the filling?
I may add a bit of homemade vanilla extract occasionally, but other flavors and extracts can dilute the sweet-savory flavor of the pumpkin. I don’t often add anything to the pumpkin puree other than spices.

Related: If pumpkin pie isn’t your jam, try Chef Rory Macdonald’s Pecan Pie with Orange and Smoked Salt or Chef Jenny McCoy’s Double-Crust Apple-Cranberry Pie.

Tips for Baking Pumpkin Pie

How do you know when the pie is done baking?
By far, the biggest mistake people make with this dessert is over baking. Remember that it is a custard and must be handled the same as a crème brûlée or any other custard. Bake it until there is a slight “soft” jiggle, but not a “wet” jiggle. Meaning, when you tap the pie, it should have just a little sway as a whole, but it should not have a wave as if it is still liquid.  

Once you have that “soft” jiggle, take it out and allow it to cool naturally. This allows for “carry-over” cooking, and the pie will set completely. Then, refrigerate the pie overnight, which allows the texture to completely set into a beautiful, silky custard. When a pie is overbaked, it squeezes all the moisture out, and the top will split or crack.

Do you need special equipment to bake a pumpkin pie at home?
Most home kitchens have everything necessary for making pie. Some tools that help include a bowl scraper or pastry cutter to help blend the dough ingredients and a rolling pin to roll out the dough.

If it's easier to follow along with a video, see how ICE Pastry & Baking Arts Chef-Instructor Trung Vu makes pumpkin pie. Good luck with your holiday baking!

Cory Sale

Cory Sale is the Senior Content Manager at ICE and an alumna (Culinary Arts '22). She enjoys writing about seasonal produce almost as much as visiting NYC’s greenmarkets, where she finds new flavors to add to ice cream. When she’s not cooking (or eating), you can find her on the frisbee field chasing down a piece of plastic.

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