There is no single “best” chocolate chip cookie — only differences of opinion. For me, the ideal cookie is big, loaded with chocolate, crisp on the outside, chewy in the center and finished with plenty of salt. If you want to take it a step further, try adding smoke.

Smoking ingredients can add surprising depth to baked goods. In this recipe, the technique brings a subtle savory note that balances the sweetness of the cookie. First, the melted butter is smoked to enhance the dough. Then the finishing salt is smoked to add a hint of wood smoke to each bite.

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How to Smoke Butter for Cookies

For this process, I like the Breville Smoking Gun because it allows you to smoke ingredients indoors quickly. Smoking works best with fatty or protein-rich ingredients, since they hold flavor well. Surface area also matters — smoke does not penetrate deeply, so spreading ingredients out helps capture more flavor.

Melted butter helps create the cookie’s chewy texture. To smoke it, place the butter in a wide container so it has as much surface area as possible. Wrap the container tightly with plastic wrap to trap the smoke. Poke a small hole in the plastic and insert the tube of the smoking gun, sealing the opening to prevent smoke from escaping.

Fill the chamber with your preferred wood chips. I favor stronger woods such as mesquite or hickory, which stand up well in baked goods. Turn on the gun and allow the container to fill with smoke. Let it sit for about 20 minutes, then repeat the process once more.

Smoking Salt for Extra Flavor

You can follow the same method to smoke Maldon salt. Because the flakes have a large surface area, the smoke penetrates quickly and will slightly darken the salt.

Once the butter and salt are ready, prepare the cookie dough.

Why Freezing Dough Makes a Better Cookie

Scoop the dough using an ice cream scoop and freeze the portions for 24 hours. I use a 3-ounce scoop for large cookies, though smaller sizes work as well. Keep in mind that smaller cookies bake faster and will be slightly crispier.

After freezing, store the dough portions in a sealed bag until ready to bake. Place them on a parchment-lined sheet tray (leaving space for spreading), top with smoked salt and bake.

Related Read: Understanding the Science of Cookies

Small technique changes like smoking butter demonstrate how flavor can be transformed through thoughtful experimentation — something pastry chefs explore deeply when refining their baking skills.

Watch Chef Penny demonstrate her technique for Epicurious and get the complete recipe below.

Ingredients

12 ounces melted butter
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 ½ teaspoons salt
22 ounces all-purpose flour
12 ounces white sugar
9 ounces light brown sugar
2 large eggs
2 egg yolks
1 vanilla bean
16 ounces high-quality semi-sweet chocolate
Maldon Sea Salt for topping

Directions

Melt butter, and smoke according to above description. (Be sure to cool butter to room temperature before mixing below batter. Smoke Maldon Sea Salt now, as well.)
In a medium bowl, combine dry ingredients (baking powder, baking soda, salt and flour). Whisk to evenly distribute the leavening.
In the bowl of a standing mixer, combine both sugars with cooled melted butter. Mix on low speed with paddle attachment until fully combined.
Add eggs, yolks and vanilla to sugar and butter mixture. Mix until combined.
Slowly, combine wet and dry ingredients in single bowl. (Three batches works best.)
Add chocolate pieces and mix until evenly distributed.
Using a 3-ounce scoop, scoop dough onto a parchment-lined cookie sheet. Chill or freeze 24 hours. (For longer-term storage, transfer dough to a freezer bag.)

To bake:

Preheat oven to 300 degrees.
Place frozen scooped cookies onto a parchment-lined sheet pan with at least two inches of space between each.
Top with smoked Maldon Sea Salt.
Bake until golden brown and center of cookie is set, 28 to 30 minutes for 3-ounce frozen dough balls. (Less baking time will be needed if baking from refrigerated, fresh or smaller-sized cookies.)

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