Play With Your Food: Linzer Cones
A moment in the thought process of an ice cream obsessed pastry cook:
“This (insert any food) is delicious! I must freeze it.”
At this current point in my life I basically think in frozen food. There’s something about the creation process I just can’t enough of. I love the challenges inherent in transferring flavors between mediums while adding new textural and temperature dynamics to a dish.
As soon as we finished the Linzer Tart in class and I got to try it, my first reaction was (as stated above) “I must freeze this!” So in honor of National Ice Cream Day (confession – I don’t know when this was but it’s been all over my Instagram since Friday) let’s get started.
I got to do a little demo with this project since two friends donated the berries used in the sherbet and loaned me some extra hands. The best thing about being so good at this is you can just pay your friends with food. Thanks again for the berries and the help, you two!
- Stand mixer w/ paddle attachment
- Food processor
- Fine mesh strainer (chinois)
- Drum strainer (tamis)
- Ice cream maker
- Cornet molds
~1000g or just shy of 2qts when frozen
I recently visited Jaques Torres’ chocolate factory in Brooklyn and while there had some of the very best raspberry sorbet I’ve ever had in my life. I knew from that first bite that any frozen raspberry thing I make moving forward would be held to that standard. I believe I have done it justice.
- 560g raspberries
- juice of ½ lemon
- juice of 1 lime
- 275g superfine sugar (run granulated through a food processor for ~30s)
- 20g-25g agave nectar (to taste)
- 200g milk
- 60g heavy cream
Bring the berries, citrus juice, and sugar to a boil and cook until very soft.
Puree in the food processor until very smooth. Pulse in agave and dairy to blend.
Taste and adjust sweetness as desired with more sugar and/or agave (remember sweetness diminishes during freezing).
Strain through fine mesh strainer into an ice bath to cool down.
Once cool, process in an ice cream maker until soft serve, then freeze until ready to use.
800g or 12 cones
This is the exact recipe used in class and it took my mad science approach to assembling the cones like a champ. It’s best if the dough is not too cold since you’ll need it pretty malleable to roll.
- 6 hard boiled egg yolks
- 300g pastry (or cake) flour
- 50g hazelnut flour
- 2t cinnamon
- 1/8t ground cloves
- 3/4t salt
- 280g butter, room temperature cubes
- 50g powdered sugar, sifted
- 15g rum
Pass the yolks through the tamis to form a very fine crumble.
Sift the flours, cinnamon, cloves, and salt together and set aside.
Cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Mix in the yolks and the rum.
Add the DRY ingredients in several additions to just combine. Form the dough into a square, wrap it in plastic and chill it for at least 60 min.
Preheat the oven to 350F.
Spray the cornets with nonstick and line a sheet pan with parchment paper.
Roll the dough about 16”x16” and about ¼” thick. Cut approximately ½” strips. Lightly brush a strip with egg wash and wrap it (egg side in) around a cornet, brush the outside with egg wash, place the cone seam side down (where the strip ends at the top) on the pan. Roll the rest the same way.
Bake the cones for about 30 min, rolling them every 10 min to ensure even browning. Remove and cool them on the pan and the molds fully before removing.
I challenge you to eat less than half before assembling the cones.
- 100g sliced almonds
- 75g simple syrup
Crush the almonds slightly and toss them with the simple syrup. Spread them out evenly on a parchment-lined pan.
Toast the almonds at 350F until golden brown. Cool completely.
Seeing as how you navigated to this website and read all the way down here I feel I can safely assume that you know how to assemble an ice cream cone. However, let me say that I found it much easier to use a piping bag with a plain #805 Ateco tip to fill the cones. It keeps any sherbet from ending up on the sides and you know it’s all about looks. (Please refrain from licking your screen – it’s gross)
That’s a wrap on the Linzer Cone. I hope you enjoyed reading. Now get out of here, go to a farmers’ market for some raspberries while they’re in season, and make that sherbet! Seriously, beat it. But before you go:
This blog post was originally published by the International Culinary Center (ICC), founded as The French Culinary Institute (FCI). In 2020, ICE and ICC came together on one strong and dynamic national platform at ICE's campuses in New York City and Los Angeles. Explore your culinary education where the legacy lives on.