Culture https://www.ice.edu/ en Esprit de Corps https://www.ice.edu/blog/blind-wine-tasting-party <span>Esprit de Corps</span> <span><span lang="" about="/user/15186" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="">aday</span></span> <span>Fri, 03/19/2021 - 12:07</span> https://www.ice.edu/sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/wine%20class%20header.jpg?itok=ZqE6hSZq How Wine Students Foster a Common Spirit at ICE <time datetime="2021-03-19T12:00:00Z">March 19, 2021</time> Scott Carney — Dean of Wine Studies <p>In his monthly musing, Dean of Wine Studies Scott Carney reflects on a recent class's commitment to blind wine tasting together despite pandemic limitations.</p> <p>In our <a href="https://www.ice.edu/newyork/continuing-ed/intensive-sommelier-training">Intensive Sommelier Training</a> program, one of the things that becomes immediately clear to new students is the fact that a good amount of time will need to be spent outside of class to meet its considerable demands. This means hitting the books in preparation for the lectures and exams and continuing the exercise of one’s tasting skills through blind tasting.</p> <p>In the first lecture of the program, I encourage students to get to know one another quickly with the goal that those with compatible schedules or those living in close proximity can find common time to study and taste together. To this end, my pitch goes something like this:</p> <p><em>Imagine that you can travel to any wine destination you desire. I’m paying with my imaginary black American Express card. So, to where would you travel and why?</em> From this fun exercise, students get a glimpse of their fellow students’ interests and can pick up a conversation.</p> <img alt="An Intensive Sommelier Training class" data-entity-type="" data-entity-uuid="" src="/sites/default/files/inline-images/wine%20class%20web.jpg" class="align-center" /><p>Sadly, the pandemic has crimped what used to make for a productive development of connections, networks and team-building. I used to tell students to head up to Corkbuzz at 13 E 13th St. where my colleague, Laura Maniec Fiorvanti MS, has been incredibly generous in hosting wine students and running them through blind tastings. Her team is well-trained and knows exactly why the students visit: to figure out for themselves why this one is Sangiovese and not Nebbiolo; or why this one is Loire Chenin Blanc and not Alsatian Pinot Gris.</p> <p>Despite the current limitations of social gathering, our January 2021 daytime class, which graduated from the program this week, showed delightful creativity in pursuit of developing their tasting skills. A schedule was developed wherein two students each day would bring in thoroughly disguised bottles of wine for distribution into various vessels or containers. A Zoom call would be arranged and in the safety of each student's own home, the blind tasting would proceed!</p> <p>I, of course, have conceits about the program I teach, one of which is that a student’s life is forever changed – and improved – by the concerted focus on the senses of smell and taste that the program requires. The enthusiasm with which this class met the challenge of exercising and developing their tasting skill outside of class is a testament to their ingenuity and <em>esprit de corps</em>. I hope the class has made them as happy as they made me.</p> <p><em>Begin your wine tasting journey in <a class="link--round-arrow" href="https://www.ice.edu/intensive-sommelier-training-info" target="_blank">Intensive Sommelier Training.</a></em></p> Wine Intensive Sommelier Training Beverage Students <div class="row align-center blog--comments"> <div class="column small-12 medium-10 large-8"> <section> <h2>Add new comment</h2> <drupal-render-placeholder callback="comment.lazy_builders:renderForm" arguments="0=node&amp;1=22706&amp;2=field_blog_article_comments&amp;3=blog_article_comment" token="s-4RQWYuDjvEcmw1i-KIhIsHRRulwfFb9Ikq5QSLfYs"></drupal-render-placeholder> </section> </div> </div> Fri, 19 Mar 2021 16:07:10 +0000 aday 22706 at https://www.ice.edu Female Restaurateurs Form RE:Her to Empower Women Entrepreneurs in LA https://www.ice.edu/blog/female-entrepreneurs-los-angeles-restaurant-industry <span>Female Restaurateurs Form RE:Her to Empower Women Entrepreneurs in LA</span> <span><span lang="" about="/user/15186" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="">aday</span></span> <span>Wed, 03/10/2021 - 11:07</span> https://www.ice.edu/sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Regarding%20Her%20Food%20header.jpg?itok=fSbyMhQ5 Four Regarding Her founders Lien Ta, Dina Samson, Brittney Valles and Kim Prince Los Angeles restaurateurs band together to support female-owned businesses. <time datetime="2021-03-10T12:00:00Z">March 10, 2021</time> Maki Yazawa — Food Writer (Culinary, &#039;19) <p>In 2020, a pandemic shook America’s restaurant industry to its core. Banding together during the crisis, Regarding Her formed to support women restaurateurs in Los Angeles' hospitality industry.</p> <p>Because of the pandemic's impact, restaurant owners had to reconsider their business models and strategies, adapting to fit the new demands and restrictions in place. Some transformed dine-in restaurants into markets and ramped up to-go options, while others created meal prep services to ride the tidal wave of the pandemic. Restaurateur and <a href="https://www.ice.edu/blog/curtis-stone-restaurant-tipping-service-charge" target="_blank">Chef Curtis Stone</a>, for example, rebranded his meat-centric Hollywood restaurant, Gwen, to a butcher shop and takeaway market to pursue an influx of steady business despite the widespread closures.</p> <p>One of the most intriguing and inspiring developments that came about amid the circumstances was the formation of the LA organization called <a href="https://www.regardingherfood.com/" target="_blank">Regarding Her</a> (<a href="https://www.instagram.com/regardingherfood/" target="_blank">RE:Her</a>). Evidently, "hardship brings people closer together if you share it," as UCLA’s basketball coach John Wooden once said. Re:Her is a "nonprofit devoted to the advancement and empowerment of women restaurateurs."</p> <p>According to the organization’s mission statement, participants “strive to create opportunities for connection and success by way of programs that support, unite and uplift female food and beverage entrepreneurs in Los Angeles and beyond.” The group offers its members opportunities such as grants for women-owned culinary businesses, has industry-focused resources for education and networking, hosts virtual and physical events to promote women in food and beverage, and represents women restaurateurs in the industry.</p> <figure role="group" class="align-right"><img alt="Heather Sperling photo by Alan Gastelum" data-entity-type="" data-entity-uuid="" src="/sites/default/files/inline-images/HS%20headshot%202%20by%20Alan%20Gastelum.jpg" /><figcaption>Heather Sperling photo by Alan Gastelum</figcaption></figure><p>“In fall 2020, nine women restaurant owners joined forces to support the female hospitality leaders of LA and drive business to women-owned restaurants in a time of need,” explains Heather Sperling, the co-owner of Botanica. “The response has been wonderful. The support, enthusiasm and engagement is incredible.”</p> <p>The founding female restaurateurs all boast impressive backgrounds and business acumen. Sandra Cordero opened Gasolina Cafe in 2015 in Woodland Hills. The restaurant serves Spanish-influenced foods like patatas bravas and pan con tomate that honor her native roots from Spain. Heather Sperling, the co-owner of Botanica, a restaurant and market in Silver Lake, provides “nourishing hospitality” and aims to promote respect, equality, inclusivity and healthfulness in every aspect of her business.</p> <p>Lien Ta is the co-owner of All Day Baby, a feel-good restaurant with the soul of a diner in Silver Lake, and Here’s Looking At You in Koreatown, which was named Restaurant of the Year by Food &amp; Wine magazine in 2017. The additional founders include Sylvie Gabriele (Love &amp; Salt), Bricia Lopez (Guelaguetza), Mary Sue Milliken (Border Grill, Socalo and BBQ Mexicana), Kimberly Prince (Hotville Chicken), Dina Samson (Rossoblu and Superfine Pizza), and Brittney Valles (Guerrilla Tacos).</p> <p>On Jan. 21, the organization hosted its inaugural festival on the anniversary of the 2017 Women’s March. Almost 100 women-owned restaurants participated in the 10-day event, collaborating with other female chefs, offering themed menus and facilitating conversations among female leaders in the industry. Diners had the opportunity to win a gift bag by filling the festival passport with stamps and receipts from 10 participating restaurants.</p> <blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CKeYGbmh1vS/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="13" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"> <div style="padding:16px;"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; 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font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CKeYGbmh1vS/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank">View this post on Instagram</a></div> </div> <div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"> <div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"> </div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style=" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"> </div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"> </div> </div> <p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CKeYGbmh1vS/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank">A post shared by RE:Her (@regardingherfood)</a></p> </div> </blockquote> <script async="" src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script><p>With a tremendous response from the public, Re:Her has nearly 200 members today. “We're working hard to create more events and resources to support them!” Heather exclaims. Though the organization originated in LA, Heather points out that there has been a lot of interest from female restaurateurs outside of the area. “We hope to serve as a model for ways local restaurant communities can connect and mobilize [in their area]," she says. “In fact, female restaurateurs of San Luis Obispo County recently created a March festival inspired by RE:Her, called At Her Table."</p> <p>Re:Her has set the stage for groundbreaking advancements for women in a male-dominant industry. Heather advises that donations help support the organization's small-business grant program, which is launching soon, saying: "We’ve got lots in the works — all intended to support LA’s women restaurateurs and encourage the public to eat their spectacular food."</p> <p><em>Don't miss ICE's <a href="https://www.ice.edu/newyork/events/female-food-entrepreneurs" target="_blank">Women Entrepreneurs panel</a> on March 18, and pursue your own future in food with a degree in <a class="link--round-arrow" href="https://www.ice.edu/losangeles/career-programs/culinary-arts-associate-degree" target="_blank">Culinary Arts &amp; Management.</a></em></p> Los Angeles Chefs Entrepreneurship Business of Food Social Change <div class="row align-center blog--comments"> <div class="column small-12 medium-10 large-8"> <section> <h2>Add new comment</h2> <drupal-render-placeholder callback="comment.lazy_builders:renderForm" arguments="0=node&amp;1=22636&amp;2=field_blog_article_comments&amp;3=blog_article_comment" token="IyzNxxjTq64EDGp3eDYyuHGQPHrDvdEi6dHktyToUFc"></drupal-render-placeholder> </section> </div> </div> Wed, 10 Mar 2021 16:07:30 +0000 aday 22636 at https://www.ice.edu https://www.ice.edu/blog/female-entrepreneurs-los-angeles-restaurant-industry#comments The Language of Wine https://www.ice.edu/blog/wine-terms <span>The Language of Wine</span> <span><span lang="" about="/user/15186" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="">aday</span></span> <span>Thu, 03/04/2021 - 17:00</span> https://www.ice.edu/sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/red%20wine%20glasses%20on%20notes%20header.jpg?itok=iPHX7okM ICE&#039;s dean of wine studies describes the terminology that students of wine develop over time. <time datetime="2021-03-05T12:00:00Z">March 5, 2021</time> Scott Carney — Dean of Wine Studies <p>Master sommelier Scott Carney introduces the journey of developing a wine tasting vocabulary as a vital aspect of wine education at ICE.</p> <p>I teach and oversee ICE's wine education program called <a href="https://www.ice.edu/newyork/continuing-ed/intensive-sommelier-training">Intensive Sommelier Training</a>, which is designed to prepare students of wine to consider a future in the beverage industry. While, as the course name indicates, the DNA of the program is restaurant beverage sales and hospitality — and many grads go on to work in restaurants — the program curriculum also exposes students to a range of wine-related occupations. Graduates of the program that was previously offered at ICC have opened wine bars and wine shops, built wine brands, and worked in wholesale and retail, often bringing previous work experience to bear on this new incarnation of themselves. As is said: No work is wasted.</p> <p>One of the primary points I make to students is the necessity of learning a new language: the language of wine. If one is in the habit of reading fine art and music reviews, it is clear that these visual and aural domains have their terminologies which can strike one as rather foreign if not arcane. And so it is with wine, and generally, the senses of smell and taste. So, the first hurdle to overcome is the development of some fluency to describe what is manifesting in your brain as you swirl and sip. You have perceptions. Now what words will you use to describe them?</p> <img alt="A student takes tasting notes while studying white wines." data-entity-type="" data-entity-uuid="" src="/sites/default/files/inline-images/student%20taking%20notes%20web.jpg" class="align-center" /><p><a class="link--round-arrow" href="https://www.ice.edu/newyork/events/march-23-intensive-sommelier-training-open-house" target="_blank">Register for our next virtual Open House to learn more about the program.</a> </p><p>The Intensive Sommelier Training course incorporates the Court of Master Sommeliers’ Deductive Tasting Method, which is deployed to help beginners adopt an orderly, critical way by which to assess wine. Proceeding from an opening judgment of the “cleanliness” of the wine – a contentious topic in the age of natural wine – a student goes on to evaluate the presence of fruits, non-fruit aromas (herbal for example), wood notes, fermentation smells, etc. The aromatic profile is followed by a taste to confirm or modify the impressions from smelling or "nosing" the wine.</p> <p>Now, much of this analysis can be quite subjective. We’re all genetically different, from different parts of the world with unique smell and taste experiences from our individual lives. But, by focusing and putting pen to paper, we can begin to draw out a flavor sketch of a particular wine. My sketch of sauvignon blanc may look a bit different than yours, but we both will have arrived at a correct conclusion by virtue of the markers we personally employ to draw that picture. Passion fruit, grapefruit, green apple, green herbs, jalapeno — some configuration of these aromas and flavors can bring us to the rewarding conclusion that we’re tasting sauvignon blanc.</p> <p>We will also be aided by what is referred to as the wine’s structure. In this part of our analysis, we will be exercising our palates to register what is ostensibly quantifiable: How much residual sugar; how much acidity; how much alcohol by volume? These evaluations are thought to be fixed numbers to which we can moor our observations.</p> <p><img alt="The wine aroma wheel" data-entity-type="" data-entity-uuid="" src="/sites/default/files/inline-images/aroma%20wheel%20web_0.jpg" class="align-right" />Dr. Anne C. Noble, a retired professor of the viticulture and oenology school at University of California, Davis, has devised a tool to help students take their first steps in the language of wine. It is called the aroma wheel. It divides the type of compounds one is likely to discover in wine and categorizes them. These smells come from fermentation, the fruit or wood aging. Over the course of the program, students taste more than 300 wines. It is rewarding to see students gain confidence as they share their analysis of a wine with the rest of the class. At varying rates, the training wheels come off. Students ride through an ordered, methodical assessment of a wine and ultimately develop a certain discernment of its quality, price/value, readiness to drink and host of other factors that comprise wine appreciation.</p> <p>Upon the conclusion of the program, students can become comfortable discussing with their peers the delights that enter their brain upon nosing and tasting a wine. The numerable indices of quality span depth of flavor, length of flavor, balance and complexity, texture, energy or vibe, subtlety, and ultimately, the simple beauty of the miraculous liquid.</p> <p>The last lesson to be gleaned from this program, the one that makes wine appreciation endlessly rewarding, is the timeline. Wines are alive and when they’re drunk at the right time, in the right context, with the right people, even the most basic of wines can make you want to stand up and applaud. You see, it’s a game that moves as you play.</p> <p><em><a class="link--round-arrow" href="https://www.ice.edu/intensive-sommelier-training-info" target="_blank">Study wine with Scott and other master sommeliers at ICE.</a></em></p> Wine Intensive Sommelier Training Beverage New York City <div class="row align-center blog--comments"> <div class="column small-12 medium-10 large-8"> <section> <h2>Add new comment</h2> <drupal-render-placeholder callback="comment.lazy_builders:renderForm" arguments="0=node&amp;1=22611&amp;2=field_blog_article_comments&amp;3=blog_article_comment" token="IdcWKXzfS3kS1smvLcDSBfoFMqW3a4G6Ay_yP7tgHDk"></drupal-render-placeholder> </section> </div> </div> Thu, 04 Mar 2021 22:00:03 +0000 aday 22611 at https://www.ice.edu https://www.ice.edu/blog/wine-terms#comments How to Make Rasam https://www.ice.edu/blog/rasam-recipe <span>How to Make Rasam</span> <span><span lang="" about="/user/15186" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="">aday</span></span> <span>Tue, 03/02/2021 - 18:32</span> https://www.ice.edu/sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/rasam%20header.jpg?itok=kGIcpOQX The tart, subtly spiced broth packs flavor and health benefits. <time datetime="2021-03-02T12:00:00Z">March 2, 2021</time> ICE Student <p>Health-Supportive Culinary Arts student Nandini Ravichandran shares her recipe for rasam, the South Indian specialty she grew up with.</p> <p>Kitchens are always brimming with possibilities, and traditional Indian kitchens extend beyond feeding to healing. Growing up, it was very rare that we would go to a hospital for common ailments – my mother always had a trick up her sleeve and deftly used spices and concoctions to treat sickness. Cumin seeds in warm water could cure an irritated stomach, soaked fenugreek seeds helped with menstrual cramps, turmeric in hot milk with a pinch of black pepper boosted general immunity (eons before the age of golden lattes!). We chewed on a clove to soothe an achy tooth or applied a paste of fresh turmeric as an antiseptic for all the bruises from childhood accidents - everything in the kitchen had a role to play in our daily body care. A true homage to the notion that we are what we eat, traditional Indian kitchen wisdom believes that body care is about making daily adjustments to our diet in response to weather, illness, our surroundings and other external factors.</p> <p><img alt="Beetroot rasam soup" data-entity-type="" data-entity-uuid="" src="/sites/default/files/inline-images/rasam%20web.jpg" class="align-right" />The food that is front and center in a South Indian kitchen, when it comes to its healing prowess, is the humble rasam, a dish that is said to have originated to treat a sick royal prince. Befitting, rasam is basically a broth that is characteristically tart (usually using tamarind as the souring agent), subtly spiced, and in most cases, made with minimal ingredients. It is a staple in South Indian households (and like many Indian foods, while its name varies by states, the essence is more or less the same).</p> <p>Rasam was my mother’s weapon of choice in her kitchen apothecary arsenal. Whether it was a common cold, sore throat, stomach ache, frayed nerves or almost any other known malady, there was nothing that a piping hot bowl of rasam couldn’t cure. And I happily complied. I am not sure if it was actually medicinal, but a bowl of rasam was always the antidote that my mother promised it to be. The dish is a piquant combination of the sweetness of ripe tomatoes, the pucker-inducing tartness of tamarind, the fragrance of carefully chosen spices, and the exotic nuttiness of whole spices and curry leaves tempered in ghee and scattered on top.</p> <p>As I delve academically into the healing properties of foods in the <a href="https://www.ice.edu/newyork/career-programs/natural-gourmet-center">Health-Supportive Culinary Arts</a> program at ICE, I can confirm that the halo around rasam wasn’t just homemaker wisdom. It wasn’t just the placebo effect that instantly fixed me up from whatever was ailing me. The composition of rasam is innately connected to health.</p> <p>Rasam ticks at least three of the six <em>rasas</em> (tastes) that <a href="https://www.ice.edu/blog/ayurvedic-diet-can-benefit-yoga-practice" target="_blank">Ayurveda</a> posits as being essential to overall well-being and health. I am no expert on Ayurvedic wisdom, but I've read that at least some elements of the six rasas – sweet, sour, salty, bitter, astringent and pungent – should be present for a food to fully benefit the body. And rasam is sweet, salty and sour – variations may even account for some of the other rasas.</p> <p>The ingredients used for making rasam are specifically chosen for their nutritional value. According to cookbook author Usha Prabhakaran (she has chronicled 1,000 ways of making rasam in her upcoming book), there is a reason for each of the spices that go into making the <em>podi</em> (spice powder) that adds body and flavor to rasam. Black pepper is good for immunity, cumin helps with digestion, mustard seeds and fenugreek seeds have antioxidant properties, and coriander seeds are anti-inflammatory. Tamarind, which lends rasam its characteristic tartness, also has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and ghee, which is used for tempering (and really brings the whole dish together), is a rich source of vitamins, healthy fats and antioxidants.</p> <p>Each building block of the flavor bomb that is rasam has unique healing properties – so it is no wonder that rasam is the magic remedy that it is touted to be. It is the perfect dish for all seasons and all reasons. When winter blues get you down, have some spicy, peppery rasam to perk you up. If you are recovering from a cold or on the edge of one, have some garlicky rasam to open your congested sinuses. Or make yourself a rich tomato rasam just because you deserve it. Sip it like a soup, mix it with some overcooked rice or enjoy it as you fancy. Rasam will always engulf you in the warmest of hugs.</p> <blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned="" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CB02YFLFhqj/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="13" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"> <div style="padding:16px;"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="padding: 19% 0;"> </div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CB02YFLFhqj/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank"><svg height="50px" version="1.1" viewbox="0 0 60 60" width="50px" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd" stroke="none" stroke-width="1"><g fill="#000000" transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></a></div> <div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CB02YFLFhqj/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank">View this post on Instagram</a></div> </div> <div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"> <div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"> </div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style=" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"> </div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"> </div> </div> <p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CB02YFLFhqj/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Nandini (@n.a.n.d.i.n.i.ravichandran)</a></p> </div> </blockquote> <script async="" src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script><p>A few key culinary notes (all of which are essential for that perfect rasam):</p> <p><strong>Your hands are your best friend:</strong> Don’t be afraid to get hands-on to assemble rasam. Crush the tomatoes, curry leaves and cilantro with some salt and the tamarind extract – this will bring out the maximum flavor in the dish.</p> <p><strong>Roast your spices for rasam powder:</strong> My mother sends me the key ingredient from India. She laboriously dries the whole spices in the grueling Indian sun and gets them ground at a nearby specialty spice mill, but it is very easy to make the spice powder at home. However, make sure to roast the whole spices before powdering them – this will release the flavor in the spices. If the spices burn in the process, throw it out and redo.</p> <p><strong>Don’t let your rasam runneth over:</strong> When it is about to boil, take the rasam off the heat, garnish with the tempered spices and let the broth rest (closed) for at least 5 minutes before eating.</p> <p><strong>Don’t skimp on some ingredients:</strong> I don’t believe in buying ingredients for single-use, but just in this case, if you can, I urge you to buy some ghee and curry leaves (if you don’t use them in your regular cooking). These two ingredients really elevate the flavor of a rasam – the nuttiness of curry leaves and spices tempered in ghee bring the whole dish together. Besides, both ghee and curry leaves have a variety of uses – so they will not go to waste.</p> <p>Ghee is available in many supermarkets now, and curry leaves are generally found in specialty Indian food markets. If you cannot consume ghee for dietary reasons, you can use oil for the tempering. Use grapeseed oil or sunflower oil as opposed to olive oil (as the flavor from olive oil may be overpowering).</p> <p><strong>If it is burnt, throw it out.</strong> The tempered spices and curry leaves added at the end of the cooking process are rasam’s crowning glory – that extra flavor layer that ties the whole dish together. Add the spices and curry leaves in the following order: Once the pan is hot, add the mustard seeds and let them sputter. Then add the red chilies, cumin seeds and curry leaves. I also add a pinch of <em>asafoetida</em> (hing) before adding the curry leaves. If the spices burn in the process, throw the whole thing out and make it again. It is worth spending the extra few minutes for perfectly tempered spices.</p> <h5>Beetroot and Carrot Rasam</h5> <ul><li>2 tablespoons beetroot, julienned</li> <li>2 tablespoons carrot, julienned</li> <li>2 medium tomatoes, roughly chopped</li> <li>1 small lemon-sized ball of tamarind (use tamarind pods, not paste)</li> <li>400 mililiters water</li> <li>1 1/2 tablespoons rasam spice powder (see directions below)</li> <li>2-3 sprigs cilantro, roughly chopped</li> <li>5-7 curry leaves, roughly torn</li> <li>1 bird’s eye chili, slit in middle, optional</li> <li>Salt, to taste</li> <li>1/2-1 teaspoon lemon juice, optional</li> </ul><p><strong>For the spice powder:</strong></p> <ul><li>1 teaspoon oil (I use sunflower or grapeseed oil)</li> <li>2 teaspoon coriander seeds</li> <li>1 teaspoon cumin seeds</li> <li>1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns (reduce if you desire less spice)</li> <li>2-4 dried red chilies (per desired spice level)</li> <li>1 teaspoon toor dal (pigeon peas)</li> <li>1/2 teaspoon chana dal (Bengal gram)</li> <li>1/2 tsp Turmeric</li> <li>5-7 curry leaves</li> <li>1 pinch asafoetida, optional</li> </ul><p><strong>For garnish and tempering:</strong></p> <ul><li>1 teaspoon ghee</li> <li>1 teaspoon mustard seeds</li> <li>1-2 dried red chilis</li> <li>1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds</li> <li>1 pinch asafoetida, optional</li> <li>1-2 sprigs cilantro, roughly chopped</li> <li>8-10 curry leaves</li> </ul> <p><strong>For the spice powder:</strong></p> <ol><li>Heat ½ tsp oil in a sauté pan and roast the dals (toor dal and chana dal) on low heat. Roast until dals change color and are aromatic. Transfer the roasted dals to a plate.</li> <li>In the same sauté pan, add the coriander seeds followed by the chilies and roast until they are aromatic and crispy. Transfer to the plate with the dals.</li> <li>In the same pan, now add cumin seeds and black peppercorns. Roast for 2 minutes and set aside in the same plate as the dals and other spices.</li> <li>Heat the remaining oil in the same pan and add the curry leaves and asafoetida (if using). Fry them until they are crispy and set aside with the other ingredients. Add the turmeric to this mixture and let it cool.</li> <li>Once cool, grind to a fine powder (I use a spice grinder for this). Store any spice powder remaining after use in a clean dry glass jar.</li> </ol><p><strong>For tempering:</strong></p> <ol><li>Heat the ghee in a sauté pan or a butter warmer.</li> <li>Once the ghee is hot, add the mustard seeds and let them pop and sputter (should be a matter of seconds).</li> <li>Once the mustard seeds sputter, add the red chilis, cumin seeds, asafoetida (if using) and curry leaves (in that order). Turn off the heat immediately after adding the curry leaves and toss to coat. The curry leaves will crisp up from the residual heat.</li> <li>Set aside and use to garnish Rasam as described below.</li> </ol><p><strong>For the rasam:</strong></p> <ol><li>Soak the tamarind in 200 ml (warm) water and set aside.</li> <li>Boil the beetroot and carrots in 200 ml water. Strain the cooked vegetables and reserve the cooking liquid.</li> <li>Puree 1 tbsp each of beetroot and carrot (with some of the cooking liquid, if needed) – retain the rest for garnish.</li> <li>Extract the juice from tamarind and reserve the water. Discard the tamarind pulp.</li> <li>Add the pureed beetroot and carrot to the tomatoes in a medium saucepan, then add the curry leaves, salt, tamarind water, reserved liquid from cooking the beetroot and carrots and bird’s eye chili (if using). Crush the tomatoes with the rest of the ingredients with your hands. Cook the mixture on low heat for 5-7 minutes.</li> <li>Add 1 ½ tbsp of the freshly prepared spice powder (see method above) and cook on medium-low heat until the Rasam comes to a gentle boil.</li> <li>As soon as it starts boiling, take the Rasam off the heat. Add the chopped cilantro, the reserved beetroot and carrot, tempered spices and curry leaves (see tempering method above). Adjust seasoning, as required and add lemon juice per taste (optional).</li> <li>Cover and let it rest for 5 minutes before serving. Serve hot. Enjoy by itself as a soup or with some rice.</li> </ol><p><em>Study more medicinal food in <a class="link--round-arrow" href="https://www.ice.edu/health-supportive-culinary-arts-info" target="_blank">Health-Supportive Culinary Arts.</a></em></p> Origin Story Global Cuisine Soups Health-Supportive Culinary Arts <div class="row align-center blog--comments"> <div class="column small-12 medium-10 large-8"> <section> <h2>Add new comment</h2> <drupal-render-placeholder callback="comment.lazy_builders:renderForm" arguments="0=node&amp;1=22601&amp;2=field_blog_article_comments&amp;3=blog_article_comment" token="vvq3k7TWnOwoNVIRwBzd7qQIWqiVRK8k6Dun5gEORUo"></drupal-render-placeholder> </section> </div> </div> Tue, 02 Mar 2021 23:32:04 +0000 aday 22601 at https://www.ice.edu Black Culinary History with Chef Thérèse Nelson https://www.ice.edu/blog/black-culinary-history-chef-therese-nelson <span>Black Culinary History with Chef Thérèse Nelson</span> <span><span lang="" about="/user/15186" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="">aday</span></span> <span>Sun, 02/28/2021 - 20:14</span> https://www.ice.edu/sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/therese%20nelson%20header.jpg?itok=hL1WgOLl Highlights from ICE’s Virtual Event with the Historian <time datetime="2021-02-28T12:00:00Z">February 28, 2021</time> ICE Staff <p>Chef Thérèse Nelson is the culinary curator of Black Culinary History, an organization she founded in 2008 as a way to connect chefs of color to preserve Black heritage throughout the African culinary diaspora, to promote and share the work of her colleagues, and to preserve the legacy being constructed by Black chefs for this next generation.</p> <p>In February 2021, she spoke with students at the Institute of Culinary Education via Facebook Live in honor of Black History Month. Here are a few of our favorite insights and pieces of advice from the virtual event, summarized from Chef Thérèse’s words.</p> <p><strong>Create Space</strong></p> <p>To explore her interest and passion in culinary work and to determine if she was rooted, prepared and armed with enough information about her cultural roots to be fortified for her work, Chef Thérèse emailed everyone she could about the Black chefs they knew. She wrote top Black chefs, saying: <em>I’m at this crossroads in my work: We are blessed to be in this industry to do this thing we are passionate about, but shouldn’t it mean more? Shouldn’t it have more context?</em></p> <p>She used her website, <a href="https://www.blackculinaryhistory.com/" target="_blank">blackculinaryhistory.com</a>, to curate related content as an archive and began to build a community with <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/blackculinaryhistory/" target="_blank">Facebook</a> as a platform to connect with Black chefs, promote and recap events, and celebrate good news. Admittedly cathartic, Thérèse’s project started as a mission to be more rigorous about identity and that resonated with others and grew into a global network utilizing the wisdom of the community to create a language around Black foodways.</p> <p><strong>Count All Contributions</strong></p> <p>Chef Thérèse began her work in search of more representation, which she still considers a valuable thing to confront, but she shifted focus to reframing how we think about American cuisine, explaining that American history often disregards the trauma and erases the agency of people who contributed a great deal — namely the enslaved.</p> <p>For example, in the 1700s, Thomas Jefferson brought <a href="https://www.monticello.org/site/research-and-collections/james-hemings" target="_blank">James Hemings</a> to France, where the slave learned to cook (and speak French) and then returned to the U.S. and taught European gastronomy. James had an integral and often overlooked impact on American culinary history, and Chef Thérèse expressed that her interest in food and chef history includes how the profession came to be.</p> <blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CGK-XxtDfV9/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="13" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"> <div style="padding:16px;"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="padding: 19% 0;"> </div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CGK-XxtDfV9/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank"><svg height="50px" version="1.1" viewbox="0 0 60 60" width="50px" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd" stroke="none" stroke-width="1"><g fill="#000000" transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></a></div> <div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CGK-XxtDfV9/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank">View this post on Instagram</a></div> </div> <div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"> <div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"> </div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style=" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"> </div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"> </div> </div> <p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CGK-XxtDfV9/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Thérèse Nelson (@blackculinary)</a></p> </div> </blockquote> <script async="" src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script><p><strong>Concern Yourself With What You Can Control</strong></p> <p>You can control what you like, what your taste is, the cultures you appreciate. The line between appropriation and appreciation has everything to do with how you engage culture. Food culture and Black culture allow for community and shared experience. The job of a chef is to translate culture into a different form. Some celebratory, communal food isn’t commercial and doesn’t fit into Eurocentric dining. Food traditions need a vocabulary to be consumed in a way that’s valuable.</p> <p>Be specific about the source of the choices you make and flavors you use. “That work is long, it’s hard, it’s forever-work,” Chef Thérèse explained. “I don’t have the energy to waste on spaces, things, frameworks I can’t control. I can’t control the zeitgeist — I can influence it, I can model a different kind of identity, and it can resonate and shift perception. That’s slow, steady, sustainable work.”</p> <p><strong>Be Curious</strong></p> <p>Chef Thérèse's advice for culinary students and aspiring chefs: Consume everything. Try everything. Be in community. Read everything. Your biggest most valuable tool at this point in your career is curiosity and newness. There’s something so valuable about being in flux, being in-process. At this point, you are an open, empty vessel that should be consuming every culture and considering everything. Start practicing active, curious listening and consideration now. That posture will serve you throughout your career.</p> <p><em>Watch the full guest lecture here:</em></p> <p><iframe allow="autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="true" frameborder="0" height="314" scrolling="no" src="https://www.facebook.com/plugins/video.php?height=314&amp;href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Ficeculinary%2Fvideos%2F2827899687427204%2F&amp;show_text=false&amp;width=560" style="border:none;overflow:hidden" width="560"></iframe></p> <p><em>Read more about <a href="https://www.ice.edu/blog/food-books-by-black-chefs">Black history</a>, and follow your curiosity with <a class="link--round-arrow" href="https://www.ice.edu/request-info" target="_blank">culinary career training at ICE.</a></em></p> Food History Chefs Food Culture Guest Lectures <div class="row align-center blog--comments"> <div class="column small-12 medium-10 large-8"> <section> <h2>Add new comment</h2> <drupal-render-placeholder callback="comment.lazy_builders:renderForm" arguments="0=node&amp;1=22586&amp;2=field_blog_article_comments&amp;3=blog_article_comment" token="xVVOlA-lW_qsjhMkZJMh4si9p93iErOR5h7E96Ylti8"></drupal-render-placeholder> </section> </div> </div> Mon, 01 Mar 2021 01:14:04 +0000 aday 22586 at https://www.ice.edu Exploring Ghanian Food with Okra Stew https://www.ice.edu/blog/okra-stew-ghanian-food <span>Exploring Ghanian Food with Okra Stew</span> <span><span lang="" about="/user/15186" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="">aday</span></span> <span>Thu, 02/25/2021 - 10:18</span> https://www.ice.edu/sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/okra%20stew%20header.jpg?itok=x6D_LRQP ICE alum Adjoa Kittoe shares the West African origins of one of her family&#039;s food traditions. <time datetime="2021-02-25T12:00:00Z">February 25, 2021</time> Adjoa Kittoe (Culinary, &#039;21) – Food Writer &amp; Private Chef <p>Private chef Adjoa Kittoe (Culinary, '21) shares the history and health benefits of okro, the West African word for okra, and the significance of the Ghanian stew she grew up with.</p> <p>Tomato, onion, garlic - the Ghanaian mirepoix is the foundation of most, if not all, Ghanaian soups and stews. Grains of Selim, cumin and cloves are the aromatics that bring life to our dishes. In this particular dish, <em>nkruma froye (fetridetsi)</em>, or okro stew, we see the diasporic connections that refused to die off, regardless of how difficult circumstances were and are today.</p> <p>Abelmoschus esculentus, okra or okro, as it is called in West African countries, have pods that are as mucilaginous (having a gluey consistency) as their history. From Nigeria to Louisiana, okra is a vegetable that adds texture and depth to a dish. The plant has grown on the African continent since 2,000 B.C. It’s migrated from Africa's Ethiopian borders to the Bantu-Kikongo regions to Kumasi in Ghana and even as far as India and Brazil. In the 21st century, people travel to New Orleans to try the nutty, toasty, intense flavor combinations in a traditional gumbo. The word gumbo even comes from the Kibundu word <em>quingombo</em>. No need for chemicals or additives; okra is a traditional and ancient thickener with nutritional value. In North America, okra is a symbol of resiliency, a reminder of the Maafa or African Holocaust.</p> <figure role="group" class="align-center"><img alt="Okra at the Oculus Greenmarket outside ICE's New York campus" data-entity-type="" data-entity-uuid="" src="/sites/default/files/inline-images/Okra%20web%20by%20Casey%20Feehan.jpg" /><figcaption>Okra at the Oculus Greenmarket outside ICE's New York campus. Photo by Casey Feehan</figcaption></figure><p>Nkruma froye is the traditional name for one of the more famous stews in Ghana. It is created with scotch bonnet pepper, dried crayfish, finely chopped and blended okra, tomatoes, palm oil, and chopped onions and can be mixed with garden eggs (a type of eggplant found in Africa) and spinach. It starts with the Ghanaian mirepoix and then palm oil, ginger and peppers are added. The flavor can be enhanced with chicken bouillon cubes and dried shrimp seasoning. To create a more viscous stew, many aunts and mothers steam the okra with a preferred animal protein.</p> <p>Similar to gumbo, okra stew can have all types of animal proteins: goat, chicken, fish, shellfish, cow and anything else you can think of. Okra stew can also be enjoyed as a vegetarian dish, without the use of dried shrimp and poultry stock cubes. I preferred to have the dish without meat during my college days when my mother would visit me and drop off a care package.</p> <blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned="" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CLSjl2GnTED/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="13" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"> <div style="padding:16px;"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="padding: 19% 0;"> </div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CLSjl2GnTED/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank"><svg height="50px" version="1.1" viewbox="0 0 60 60" width="50px" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd" stroke="none" stroke-width="1"><g fill="#000000" transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></a></div> <div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CLSjl2GnTED/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank">View this post on Instagram</a></div> </div> <div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"> <div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"> </div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style=" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"> </div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"> </div> </div> <p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CLSjl2GnTED/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Seulful Pantry (@seulful)</a></p> </div> </blockquote> <script async="" src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script><p>Among the misconceptions about African food, and African culture in general, are whispers and banter describing eating with your hands as savage behavior that is not proper or civilized — yet the sensory experience of allowing draw soup (Nigerian okra soup) to fall between your fingertips is what adds to the journey of the dish. Our food is an experience and the foundation of many, what some would call, modern dishes today. I see pieces of my favorite childhood dishes in Indian, French and Italian restaurants.</p> <p>Growing up, I did not eat much Ghanaian food, or so I thought. I craved the American diet of pizza and hamburgers. But living with immigrant parents, as an immigrant myself, we ate what our ancestors ate. Luckily for me, my cuisine was as exciting as a snow day. It brought warmth in cold days and smiles on bitter nights. At times, my mother would ask, “lasagna or okra stew?” I chose okra stew every time. While others complained about its slimy texture, it was a luxury for me. Okra stew was a specialty in my home, and during my visits to Ghana, I had the meal only on Sunday mornings. Although it is a typical dish, it is not something eaten daily, as the side dish, or swallow, is thick enough to put you to sleep.</p> <p>The stew is generally accompanied by <em>banku</em>, fermented corn cooked and mashed into a consistency of dough. Similar to fufu, banku is a swallow that is used to “pull” the stew, like an edible utensil. The flavor is hard to describe with subtle sour notes. It is firm yet malleable, perfect for grabbing pieces of goat or fish from your soup or stews. The fermentation adds taste and antimicrobial properties. We have intention in our food curation. Okra is rich in vitamin A and C and <a href="https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/okra-health-benefits#:~:text=The%20main%20antioxidants%20in%20okra,and%20oxidative%20damage%20(%208%20)." target="_blank">may lower the risk of heart disease</a>. It’s not common to find someone with heart disease in my native country. Sometimes, when I was feeling ill, I was offered okra stew as a remedy. As it’s 90% water, okra supplied me with the hydration I needed on days when I couldn’t take in much food. In North America, okra stews were eaten with rice, millet, hominy and sometimes corn mush. Similar to the Ghanaian preparation, the okra was boiled with tomatoes and onions and sometimes dark leafy greens.</p> <p>Okra stew has traveled around the world, making pit stops in India, Brazil, the Caribbean and North America. It has brought richness to the Gulf Coast region and comfort to the West Coast of Africa. Although not eaten with a knife, fork or spoon, the anatomic utensils that we call hands bring intimacy to the meal.</p> <p><em>Read more about <a href="https://www.ice.edu/blog/all?blog_tag=Origin+Story">specialty dish origins</a>, and study global cuisine in <a class="link--round-arrow" href="https://www.ice.edu/newyork/career-programs/school-culinary-arts" target="_blank">Culinary Arts at ICE.</a></em></p> Food History Global Cuisine Origin Story Alumni Stews <div class="row align-center blog--comments"> <div class="column small-12 medium-10 large-8"> <section> <h2>Add new comment</h2> <drupal-render-placeholder callback="comment.lazy_builders:renderForm" arguments="0=node&amp;1=22556&amp;2=field_blog_article_comments&amp;3=blog_article_comment" token="zTHrvzeZuhd1ij0i7_NaMvoj0UjbklNO8W9tmEDWDbA"></drupal-render-placeholder> </section> </div> </div> Thu, 25 Feb 2021 15:18:15 +0000 aday 22556 at https://www.ice.edu The History of Chapulines https://www.ice.edu/blog/chapulines-mexican-food <span>The History of Chapulines</span> <span><span lang="" about="/user/15186" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="">aday</span></span> <span>Mon, 02/15/2021 - 12:05</span> https://www.ice.edu/sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Chapulines%20header.jpg?itok=huyUvRdY ICE faculty and staff taste test edible grasshoppers from Mexico. <time datetime="2021-02-15T12:00:00Z">February 15, 2021</time> Maki Yazawa — Food Writer (Culinary, &#039;19) <p>In the United States, a snack typically consists of chips, yogurt or an apple. However, in some parts of Mexico, a midday bite may include edible grasshoppers called chapulines. Most kids in cities like Oaxaca grow up eating these protein-rich critters without any perils. As chapulines gain popularity worldwide, finding them at ballpark games and local restaurants may become commonplace. To put the unconventional-to-some snack to the test, ICE faculty and staff taste-tested the delicious critters.</p> <p>When it comes to chapulines, the expression “don’t knock it ‘til you try it” couldn’t be more relevant. The grasshoppers are commonly eaten in Mexico and other parts of Central America. Though some may cringe at the sight or thought of consuming these crunchy insects, others consider them a delicacy, a vital source of protein, and even a part of their cultural tradition.</p> <p><strong>How Are They Harvested?</strong></p> <p>To catch grasshoppers, farmers in Oaxaca wake up at the crack of dawn to begin their hunt. At this cooler time of day, the grasshoppers are less hyperactive and much easier to catch. To yield the maximum amount of chapulines, farmers typically wait until summer and fall — during their hatching season — to start harvesting. However, this cumbersome method of catching the agile critters by hand can often prove futile or unsuccessful.</p> <p>As demand for these protein-rich bugs continues to grow, other forms of cultivating the grasshoppers have taken the lead. For example, companies like Israeli-owned Hargol FoodTech turned to commercial methods of farming the chapulines in controlled environments to enhance the quality and quantity of the harvest. Fortunately, though commercialized, manufacturing these insects yields far fewer adverse effects on the environment than the meat industry. Data shows that the commercial production of grasshoppers results in a very low water footprint, yields extremely low greenhouse gas emissions and is a zero-waste farming cycle, according to Hargol FoodTech.</p> <p><strong><img alt="chapulines" data-entity-type="" data-entity-uuid="" src="/sites/default/files/inline-images/Chapulines%20web.jpg" class="align-right" />Significance of Chapulines in Mexican Cuisine</strong></p> <p>The consumption of chapulines in Mexican history traces back as early as the mid-16th century. During this time, the insects were a vital protein source before the Spanish conquistadors introduced domesticated animals to the region. Today, you can still find a bounty of flavored chapulines at the eclectic outdoor markets that line Mexico’s streets.</p> <p>Traditionally, chapulines are prepared by toasting and frying on a <em>comal</em>, the flat, cast-iron griddle widely used in Mexican cuisine. Then, the bug is seasoned with garlic, lime, salt and chiles. On its own, a <em>chapulín</em> (the word for a single grasshopper) doesn’t have much flavor and is rather bland. When paired with zesty seasonings, the insect adds an exciting crunch to many popular Mexican dishes like tacos or <em>tlayudas</em>, Oaxacan-style pizzas. You can also find spiced chapulines served as bar food alongside a cold, refreshing beer for a more casual snack.</p> <p>Though these humble critters may seem unappealing to some, they are regarded by many in Mexico as an honor of tradition, which is reflected in their often hefty price tag. Contrary to popular belief, chapulines aren’t as cheap as you may think. Due to the difficulty of sourcing them, one pound of these critters retails at about $50 online.</p> <p><strong>Contemporary Establishments Serving Chapulines</strong></p> <p>When attending a baseball game, you can typically expect snacks to range from hot dogs to peanuts to popcorn. However, fans of the MLB Seattle Mariners may have tried chapulines at the team's stadium, T-Mobile Park. In Los Angeles, the Oaxacan restaurant Poquitos serves chapulines for just $5, offering a zesty and crunchy snack.</p> <p>In Mexico City, an establishment on Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants list called Sud 777 serves a margarita with chapulines. Besides the grasshoppers, you can find other critters on the menu like <em>escamoles</em> — ant eggs dubbed the caviar of the desert — served atop a tlayuda and paired with a serving of guacamole.</p> <p>In the heart of LA's Koreatown, you can find roasted and seasoned chapulines tacos served at Guelaguetza. Don’t worry, that’s not the only item on the menu. If you’re not feeling too adventurous, this destination offers other authentic Oaxacan foods and flavors like mole, various mezcals and tlayudas with toppings like chorizo or cactus!</p> <blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CH8gpu8ncVw/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="13" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"> <div style="padding:16px;"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="padding: 19% 0;"> </div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CH8gpu8ncVw/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank"><svg height="50px" version="1.1" viewbox="0 0 60 60" width="50px" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd" stroke="none" stroke-width="1"><g fill="#000000" transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></a></div> <div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CH8gpu8ncVw/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank">View this post on Instagram</a></div> </div> <div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"> <div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"> </div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style=" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"> </div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"> </div> </div> <p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CH8gpu8ncVw/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Guelaguetza (@laguelaguetza)</a></p> </div> </blockquote> <script async="" src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script><p><strong>The ICE Taste Test</strong></p> <p>We put our Los Angeles campus faculty and staff to the test trying chapulines. Some were experienced chapulín connoisseurs and were not shy taking on the challenge; others squirmed at the mere thought of consuming an insect.</p> <p>At first bite, “they’re really tough, but they’re salty, spicy and very garlicky,” described Valerie Sanchez from the Admissions department. To our amazement, LA Campus President Lachlan Sands was incredibly eager to indulge in one of his favorite snacks. “I can see their eyes!” he said as he took a generous spoonful. After crunching for a few seconds, he exclaimed, “They’re delicious!”</p> <p>Chef-Instructor Stephen Chavez gave a thumbs up, while chef-instructors Alan Kang and Eric Mickle were left speechless. After a series of nervous giggles, Director of Admissions Gabriela Arzate gave them a try. “It’s really good; I could have another,” she excitedly noted. Overall, the edible grasshoppers were received with a generally positive consensus, with some asking for more! And now we know more about the tradition of consuming them.</p> <p><em>Study global cuisine in <a class="link--round-arrow" href="https://www.ice.edu/losangeles/career-programs/culinary-arts" target="_blank">Culinary Arts at ICE.</a></em></p> Global Cuisine Ingredient Exploration Culinary Education Food History <div class="row align-center blog--comments"> <div class="column small-12 medium-10 large-8"> <section> <h2>Add new comment</h2> <drupal-render-placeholder callback="comment.lazy_builders:renderForm" arguments="0=node&amp;1=22486&amp;2=field_blog_article_comments&amp;3=blog_article_comment" token="fq1JJcDfHB6WJNt0FM7j5cYybrAlFY17Uf5ItWfdlNM"></drupal-render-placeholder> </section> </div> </div> Mon, 15 Feb 2021 17:05:56 +0000 aday 22486 at https://www.ice.edu Rice Cakes in Korean Cuisine https://www.ice.edu/blog/rice-cake-korean-lunar-new-year <span>Rice Cakes in Korean Cuisine</span> <span><span lang="" about="/user/15186" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="">aday</span></span> <span>Wed, 02/10/2021 - 12:08</span> https://www.ice.edu/sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/korean%20food%20header%20credit%20Grace%20Lee.jpg?itok=4lt4-TvN Photos by Grace Lee Sweet, Savory, Celebratory Snacking <time datetime="2021-02-10T12:00:00Z">February 10, 2021</time> Joy Cho — Pastry Writer <p>Lunar New Year is celebrated with a variety of flavorful, unique foods in Asian culture. For Koreans, <em>dduk-guk</em> (rice cake soup) is a mainstay on the New Year’s table. I grew up eating this iconic dish every New Year’s day, like many Korean Americans who observe the holiday on January 1 rather than on Lunar New Year, which lands sometime in late January or February (February 12, 2021).</p> <p>Regardless of the date the New Year is celebrated, dduk-guk remains a traditional and comforting dish that Koreans around the world enjoy with loved ones. The rice cake soup is made with a base of either beef broth or anchovy broth, seasoned, and boiled with flat, oval-shaped rice cakes that become soft and chewy in the soup. Sometimes dumplings are added to the mix, making it dduk-<em>mandu</em>-guk. Dduk-guk is usually topped with some combination of chopped green onions, strips of seaweed, thinly sliced fried egg and shredded beef (if beef broth is used). The soup is equal parts hearty, nourishing and satisfying: the perfect way to kick off a new year.</p> <blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned="" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CJgodoVh4Ny/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="13" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"> <div style="padding:16px;"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="padding: 19% 0;"> </div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CJgodoVh4Ny/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank"><svg height="50px" version="1.1" viewbox="0 0 60 60" width="50px" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd" stroke="none" stroke-width="1"><g fill="#000000" transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></a></div> <div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CJgodoVh4Ny/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank">View this post on Instagram</a></div> </div> <div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"> <div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"> </div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style=" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"> </div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"> </div> </div> <p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CJgodoVh4Ny/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Korean BBQ &amp; Karaoke (@insabrooklyn)</a></p> </div> </blockquote> <script async="" src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script><p>Dduk-guk, however, is just one of many ways that Koreans incorporate rice cakes into our cuisine. On the savory end of the spectrum, a well-known dish is <em>tteokbokki</em> (spicy stir-fried rice cakes). One of my favorite Korean comfort foods, tteokbokki consists of long, cylindrical rice cakes, fish cake strips (<em>odeng</em>), boiled eggs, and vegetables like sliced onions, carrots and cabbage. The ingredients are cooked together in a spicy and slightly sweet gochujang-based sauce that can lean soupy or a bit thicker, depending on the recipe.</p> <p>ICE alumni chefs in New York are readily showcasing rice cakes in their restaurants’ savory dishes, both in traditional applications and more avant-garde interpretations. <a href="https://www.ice.edu/newyork/explore-ice/alumni-profiles/esther-choi" target="_blank">Esther Choi</a> (Culinary, ’11), chef and owner of mokbar in Chelsea and Brooklyn, gives tteokbokki a fresh twist by using brown buttered rice cakes, poaching the egg, and adding crispy pork and bacon and white kimchi to the spicy red sauce. Esther also offers a DIY <em>budae jjigae</em>, "army stew," meal kit that includes rice cakes alongside a host of other ingredients like spam, baked beans, and Kurobuta sausage to be cooked in the kimchi pork ramen broth.</p> <blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CDMmq4FBk8Y/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="13" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"> <div style="padding:16px;"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="padding: 19% 0;"> </div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CDMmq4FBk8Y/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank"><svg height="50px" version="1.1" viewbox="0 0 60 60" width="50px" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd" stroke="none" stroke-width="1"><g fill="#000000" transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></a></div> <div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CDMmq4FBk8Y/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank">View this post on Instagram</a></div> </div> <div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"> <div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"> </div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style=" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"> </div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"> </div> </div> <p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CDMmq4FBk8Y/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank">A post shared by mökbar (@mokbar_nyc)</a></p> </div> </blockquote> <script async="" src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script><p><a href="https://www.ice.edu/newyork/explore-ice/alumni-profiles/sohui-kim" target="_blank">Sohui Kim</a> (Culinary/Management, ’02) offers tteokbokki as well at her restaurant, Insa, in Brooklyn – dubbing it “OG street-style spicy rice cakes” and adding soft boiled egg and puffed rice to the dish. Her take on <em>tteok-mandu guk</em> (rice cake and dumpling soup) is particularly fascinating, with chicken dumplings served in a smoked chicken dashi with rice cakes, egg and nori.</p> <p>Departing from the savory side of things, sweet rice cakes are a world of their own, coming in a range of shapes, colors and fillings. They’re often part of celebrations, holidays and special occasions, like a baby’s 100th day or first birthday (both important milestones in Korean culture). Here's a small sampling of sweet rice cakes:</p> <ul><li><strong>Injeolmi</strong> are soft, sticky balls of rice cake dusted in a nutty, roasted soybean powder and made from steaming and pounding soaked sweet rice. Sometimes mugwort powder is added during the process to yield dark green-hued and earthy-tasting <a href="https://www.maangchi.com/recipe/injeolmi" target="_blank">injeolmi</a>.</li> <li><strong>Mujigae-dduk</strong>, which translates to “<a href="https://www.maangchi.com/recipe/mujigae-tteok" target="_blank">rainbow rice cake</a>,” is a rice cake with a slightly cakey texture made from short-grain rice flour. It is named such because three to five layers are dyed different colors; this rice cake often makes an appearance at events like weddings.</li> <li><strong>Songpyun</strong> are small, chewy rice cake balls made from wet rice flour (short-grain rice flour), filled with a crushed sesame seed-honey/brown sugar mixture or a sweetened mungbean mixture (among other filling options) prior to steaming. <a href="https://kimchimari.com/how-to-make-songpyeon-for-chuseok/" target="_blank">Songpyun</a> were originally steamed atop a pine needle layer, and are often seen in white, pink or green hues and commonly eaten during <em>Chuseok</em> (“Korean Thanksgiving” around the fall).</li> </ul><p>As you can see, there is a vast assortment of rice cakes in Korean cuisine, and depending on the application, they can be a casual snack, part of a meal, a dessert, gift or special occasion food (not to mention other cuisines that incorporate rice cakes into their cooking and snacking!). Because of the technique and effort required, people tend to buy frozen rice cakes or order from specialty rice cake bakeries rather than regularly make them at home. But whether as part of a weeknight dinner or a national holiday, and regardless of where you source them, it’s easy to see why rice cakes are so widely eaten and enjoyed in Korean culture: They’re extremely versatile, texturally interesting, and most of all, delicious in their many sweet and savory forms.</p> <p><em>Read more about <a href="https://www.ice.edu/blog/vegetable-biryani">rice in Indian cuisine</a>, and study global food traditions in <a class="link--round-arrow" href="https://www.ice.edu/newyork/career-programs/school-culinary-arts" target="_blank">Culinary Arts.</a></em></p> Global Cuisine Origin Story Food Culture Holidays <div class="row align-center blog--comments"> <div class="column small-12 medium-10 large-8"> <section> <h2>Add new comment</h2> <drupal-render-placeholder callback="comment.lazy_builders:renderForm" arguments="0=node&amp;1=22471&amp;2=field_blog_article_comments&amp;3=blog_article_comment" token="n6sY8lcVS-9G-oMCSi3v5shvedqqKQxLsK91MyLz7cI"></drupal-render-placeholder> </section> </div> </div> Wed, 10 Feb 2021 17:08:19 +0000 aday 22471 at https://www.ice.edu How Fortune Cookies Came to Be https://www.ice.edu/blog/fortune-cookie <span>How Fortune Cookies Came to Be</span> <span><span lang="" about="/user/15186" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="">aday</span></span> <span>Tue, 02/09/2021 - 20:14</span> https://www.ice.edu/sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/fortune%20cookie%20header.jpg?itok=msbSammo The history of the American tradition as Chinese New Year and Valentine’s Day approach. <time datetime="2021-02-09T12:00:00Z">February 9, 2021</time> Pamela Vachon — Food and Travel Writer (Culinary, ‘11) <p>Chinese New Year 2021 falls on Friday, February 12, just in time for Valentine's Day weekend. If you’re looking for a confection to honor both occasions, look no further than fortune cookies for concealed messages with longer declarations of love than you can put on a typical conversation heart.</p> <p>A meal from a Chinese restaurant would hardly be complete without the ceremonial finish of the fortune cookie: the scented wafer that breaks easily to give way to its more exciting component — the paper fortune contained within. Ancient words of wisdom, a handful of lucky numbers, and even a word or two in Mandarin, all encased in a lightly sweet, crunchy treat. Who could ask for more from a free dessert?</p> <figure role="group" class="align-right"><img alt="Brianna Farrel's Valentine's Day fortune cookies" data-entity-type="" data-entity-uuid="" src="/sites/default/files/inline-images/fortune%20cookies%20web.jpg" /><figcaption>ICE alum Brianna Farrel (Pastry, 20) won a student cookie competition with these Valentine's Day fortune cookies in 2020.</figcaption></figure><p>While <a href="https://www.ice.edu/blog/valentines-day-fortune-cookies">fortune cookies</a> in their prophetic simplicity certainly seem like something that could have been around for several dynasties, in reality, they aren’t even a little bit ancient. (Necco’s <a href="https://www.ice.edu/blog/valentines-day-conversation-heart-macarons">Conversation Hearts</a> are actually older by half a century.) Nor are they — brace yourself — actually Chinese in pedigree. You’d scarcely find a Chinese restaurant from America to Australia missing fortune cookies as part of the experience but in China, you'd have to seek your fortune outside of the dessert course.</p> <p>So how did these enigmatic cookies originate? Several contemporary sources from <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2008/01/16/travel/16iht-fortune.9260526.html" target="_blank">The New York Times</a> to the <a href="https://americanhistory.si.edu/blog/2010/07/origins-of-a-fortune-cookie.html" target="_blank">Smithsonian</a> have pursued the parentage of the fortune cookie, with Chinese-American scholar and author of “<a href="http://www.fortunecookiechronicles.com/" target="_blank">The Fortune Cookie Chronicles</a>” Jennifer 8. Lee weighing in as the preeminent source. While there has been mild controversy about who exactly gets the credit for the treat in its existing form, the birthplace is certain: California. And the DNA? Likely Japanese.</p> <p>Fortune cookies as we know them are simply made with flour, sugar, vanilla, and butter or oil, lightly baked or griddled until just pliable and then folded into the signature shape. For any <a href="https://www.ice.edu/newyork/career-programs/school-culinary-arts">Culinary Arts</a> graduates who still shudder(as I do) thinking about making Thomas Keller’s salmon cornets in Module 5 of the curriculum, fortune cookies come together in a similar way to the cone: wafers are cooked in small batches and must be folded and bent while still warm from the oven.</p> <p>In flavor and appearance, they most closely resemble a cookie called <em>tsujiura senbei</em> that originated in Kyoto, Japan, in the 1800s. These cookies were wafer-like in texture and a little more savory than the modern fortune cookie, more like crackers, often flavored with sesame and miso. They also contained fortune cookies’ signature calling card: a paper fortune held in the bend of the wafer.</p> <p>During a wave of Asian immigration to the United States' West Coast in the late 1800s and early 1900s, a Japanese immigrant named Makoto Hagiwara is believed to have been the first to serve the cookies at Golden Gate Park’s Japanese Tea Garden in San Francisco in 1908. Competing claims eventually came from other culinary entrepreneurs in Los Angeles: David Jung of Hong Kong Noodle Company and Seiichi Keto of Fugetsu-do, but ultimately Hagiwara’s claim as the first has prevailed as the most likely, whether his cookie influenced the others or not.</p> <p>The modern American fortune cookie seems to have made the cultural leap from Japan to China around World War II for various reasons. By then both Japanese and <a href="https://www.ice.edu/blog/new-york-city-chinese-food-trends">Chinese restaurants</a> were serving them in San Francisco and Los Angeles — with the rising popularity, Japanese purveyors often sold them to Chinese restaurants. As many Japanese immigrants were interned during World War II, Chinese bakeries began carrying the torch of their production and were among the first to mechanize the fortune cookie-making process. With the establishment of mass production and therefore widespread distribution to Chinese restaurants across the U.S., the fortune cookie’s fortune as a Chinese artifact in the minds of Americans was sealed. Now the largest manufacturer of fortune cookies is Wonton Food, based in New York.</p> <p>As for the convergence of Chinese cultural celebrations and romance, certainly, the fortune cookie has been widely used as a vessel for proposals at any time of year, but there are particular occasions throughout the Chinese calendar for celebrations of romance. Fifteen days after Lunar New Year is the Lantern Festival, when the lighting is undeniably flattering, and unity and togetherness are celebrated by eating <em>tang yuan</em>: glutinous rice balls studded with sweet fillings such as peanuts, red beans or sesame seeds. In contemporary Chinese culture, Western traditions such as flowers and chocolate have also been adopted as typical gifts for romantic occasions.</p> <blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned="" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/reel/CLH3Y8fnfWc/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="13" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"> <div style="padding:16px;"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="padding: 19% 0;"> </div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/CLH3Y8fnfWc/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank"><svg height="50px" version="1.1" viewbox="0 0 60 60" width="50px" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd" stroke="none" stroke-width="1"><g fill="#000000" transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></a></div> <div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/CLH3Y8fnfWc/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank">View this post on Instagram</a></div> </div> <div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"> <div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"> </div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style=" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"> </div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"> </div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"> </div> </div> <p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/CLH3Y8fnfWc/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Institute of CulinaryEducation (@iceculinary)</a></p> </div> </blockquote> <script async="" src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script><p>The most common Chinese celebration of love is the Qixi Festival, or Chinese Valentine’s Day, which usually takes place in the fall. The Qixi Festival — or the Double Seven Festival, as it falls on the seventh day of the seventh month of the lunar calendar — celebrates an ancient story of a god and goddess who were banished from the heavens for having the audacity to fall in love with each other. On Earth, they were exiled as a cowherd and a weaver girl, where they managed to meet and fall in love again. (Now that’s good fortune.)</p> <p><em>Learn more about the origins of food traditions in <a class="link--round-arrow" href="https://www.ice.edu/request-info" target="_blank">career training programs at ICE.</a></em></p> Cookies Global Cuisine Food History Origin Story <div class="row align-center blog--comments"> <div class="column small-12 medium-10 large-8"> <section> <h2>Add new comment</h2> <drupal-render-placeholder callback="comment.lazy_builders:renderForm" arguments="0=node&amp;1=22466&amp;2=field_blog_article_comments&amp;3=blog_article_comment" token="ArjQNAx97pZNOESOf04frCdeT1dLbq8Z5JUN_GkHBT8"></drupal-render-placeholder> </section> </div> </div> Wed, 10 Feb 2021 01:14:15 +0000 aday 22466 at https://www.ice.edu https://www.ice.edu/blog/fortune-cookie#comments The Art of the Cooper https://www.ice.edu/blog/what-is-a-cooper <span>The Art of the Cooper</span> <span><span lang="" about="/user/15186" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="">aday</span></span> <span>Wed, 01/27/2021 - 15:37</span> https://www.ice.edu/sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/barrels%20header.jpg?itok=pSW2fVLg Chef Barry visits a cooperage in New York&#039;s Hudson Valley to explore the craft&#039;s potential for fermentation. <time datetime="2021-01-27T12:00:00Z">January 27, 2021</time> Barry Tonkinson — Director of Culinary Research and Development <p>My exploration into the art of fermentation has led me down a fascinating and winding path, intertwined with science, craft and cultural history, including most recently, a cooperage to learn more about coopering's impact on the culinary world.</p> <p>For hundreds of years the human population has relied upon the talented hands of craftsmen to help shape the world in which we live today.</p> <p>When humans began exploring the globe, trade, war and construction boomed. Global expansion and urban growth relied critically on the transport of supplies and commodities. Vessels for transportation became vital for the sprawling population of the developing Roman empire when huge quantities of goods were required to reach the military quickly. Although Romans are known for their roads, it was the shipping of goods across the water that provided the fastest and cheapest supply routes.</p> <figure role="group" class="align-center"><img alt="A boat with barrels in 3 AD" data-entity-type="" data-entity-uuid="" src="/sites/default/files/inline-images/boat%203%20AD.jpg" /><figcaption>A ship with wooden barrels in 3 A.D.</figcaption></figure><p>As early as 3 A.D., ships would be laden with clay vessels, filled with wine, spices, olive oil, silk, wheat, fish sauce, tin, gold and glass. Some ships would carry as much as 300 tons of cargo in a single journey. Heavy and fragile clay vessels often succumbed to the turbulence of sea travel so wooden barrels became a replacement. Caesar introduced wine to the Bordeaux region of France just as the Roman empire crumbled, transporting vast quantities of massive economic importance. A thousand years later, after the battle of Hastings in 1066, trade flourished across the English Channel with 200 ships of wine cargo transported to England every year.</p> <p>“The wooden barrel was the cardboard box of its time,” explained John Cox of <a href="https://www.qcooperage.com/" target="_blank">Quercus Cooperage</a>. Everything — from potable water, eggs, fish, and wine to glass, cotton, tobacco, cement and whaling oil — was being shipped and traded in barrels. The now precious vessels were instruments of economic growth, and the cooper became cherished for making, tending to and repairing them.</p> <figure role="group" class="align-center"><img alt="John Cox is the cooper at Quercus Cooperage" data-entity-type="" data-entity-uuid="" src="/sites/default/files/inline-images/John%20Cox%20cooper.jpg" /><figcaption>John Cox</figcaption></figure><p>I visited John in High Falls, New York, to better understand his craft and its culinary applications. A cooper is someone who works with coopered joinery by attaching wood at a certain angle. One of 30 coopers in the United States, John is one of a handful still using traditional methods.</p> <p>John hand crafts beautiful barrels, <a href="https://www.ice.edu/blog/all?blog_tag=Fermentation" target="_blank">fermentation</a> vessels, tubs and kiokes and has recently designed and produced a custom muro and kioke for use in the <a href="https://www.ice.edu/newyork/explore-ice/culinary-technology-lab" target="_blank">culinary technology lab</a>.</p> <p>“I’m a cooper. I’m 5’6” — I’m considered a mini cooper,” he says. (We chuckle, it seems as if he’s said this before!). John began working with wood in his teens and after 28 years in the custom cabinetry industry, looked elsewhere to apply his passion and trade. Traditional barrel cooperage “just sucked me in,” he says.</p> <figure role="group" class="align-right"><img alt="kioke and barrles at the cooperage" data-entity-type="" data-entity-uuid="" src="/sites/default/files/inline-images/barrels%20and%20kioke%20web.jpg" /><figcaption>A muro and barrels at Quercus Cooperage</figcaption></figure><p>John took advantage of an opportunity to meet a rise in demand for oak barrels from the craft spirit industry. Beyond that economic lure, it is clear to me in our conversations that he is preserving a trade that has so many cultural, economic and historical ties. John spent the next two years learning his craft by reverse engineering barrels. He fashioned modern tools based on 19th-century coopering tools found at a museum auction.</p> <p>In my search for the perfect fermented foods, I also wanted to make sure I was using traditional methods and vessels to capture the full extent of microbes at work. John’s knowledge and passion for his craft has sparked my interest as I begin to unravel a whole world, which I did not know existed.</p> <p>Coopering requires brains and brawn. A cooper must be physically strong and use math to calculate exact dimensions and angles. Coopered joinery works with an equation to find the angles needed to form a perfect joint. A picture frame, for example, takes the degrees in a circle (360), divided by the number of pieces of wood (four). The outcome (90), is then divided by two to find the angle needed to join the pieces together (45 degrees). The same works for a wooden barrel. A barrel with 36 pieces of wood is divided into 360, and then the result is divided by two to find the angle needed to join each piece of wood (5 degrees).</p> <p>There are three types of coopers:</p> <ul><li>A white cooper historically crafted utensils, bowls, pails, butter churns, spoons, ladles and other kitchen implements.</li> <li>A slack cooper fashioned slack barrels for transporting nails, glass, cement, dry goods and pelts.</li> <li>A tight cooper produces barrels for liquids, like water, wine, whiskey, milk, oil and paint.</li> </ul><p>American colonial industries relied heavily upon the barrel and the cooper for not only trade but also construction. In Jamestown, pipes were coopered to bring water inland from the James River. The Statue of Liberty’s construction relied on cement transported down the Hudson River from Rosendale, New York. The whaling oil industry relied so heavily on the craft that barrels were coopered on deck while whale oil was melted.</p> <img alt="barrel design" data-entity-type="" data-entity-uuid="" src="/sites/default/files/inline-images/barrel%20design%20web.jpg" class="align-center" /><p>The barrel requires a bilge (the thickest part) in order for one person to move, pivot and lift it. Six riveted rings hold its shape, pushing the angled wood together to form a tight seal. The barrel is steamed to soften and loosen lignin (an organic polymer found in the cell walls of plants). The barrel is then toasted. (American distillers are federally mandated to use new charred oak barrels for aging whiskey.) Toasting the barrel develops the aggregate sugars, such as cellulose and hemicellulose, and produces flavors such as coconut, honey and vanilla. The last phase is charring: 1,300 F for 45 seconds changes the wood from toasted to blackened and charred, developing the color and flavor you taste and see in barrel-aged products like whiskey.</p> <p>Such was the value of those tending to barrels or butts that we see the imprint in our culture today. Both were kept in the “buttery” (cellar) storing ale, wine and other liquids, and the person in charge of them became known as the “butler,” a highly regarded member of the household staff. At its peak, coopering was big business: John Rockefeller had the largest cooperage in the world when he became the largest producer of oil. In 1901, there were thought to be 91 million barrels in the United States, among a population of 93 million people. </p> <p>However, just like the clay vessel, the wooden barrel met its decline. After the industrial revolution and prohibition, the shipping container, tin drum and corrugated cardboard replaced the barrel with lighter, cheaper and rapidly manufactured products. To this day the number of coopers is dwindling with industrial manufacturing replacing traditional methods of cooperage, and trade knowledge (traditionally passed down from generation to generation) has been lost along the way.</p> <p>As other uses declined, only the alcohol industry has sustained the need for the cooper. In recent years, a surge in interest in craft spirits led to an increase in demand for oak barrels, an opportunity John realized. The requirements needed to produce a single barrel are exhausting, however. Barrels must use two to three-year air-dried white oak, not dried in a kiln. The lignin must be present and uncrystallized, and the wood quarter sawed so the grain is perpendicular to the barrel face, allowing the tubular cell structure to expand and prevent water from seeping through.</p> <figure role="group" class="align-center"><img alt="muro in lab" data-entity-type="" data-entity-uuid="" src="/sites/default/files/inline-images/muro%20in%20culinary%20technology%20lab_0.jpg" /><figcaption>A muro inoculates rice in the Culinary Technology Lab at ICE.</figcaption></figure><p>Now John’s expertise is in high demand from a growing community of fermenters. The level of skill and accuracy it takes to create a single barrel, tub or kioke leaves its imprints in everything we ferment, age and store. Fermentation vessels such as kioke, used for making shoyu and miso, are growing in popularity. I reached out to John in search of a white cedar muro (inoculation cabinet), and he designed a prototype that I use at ICE now. For 7,000 years, people have been making koji, but here in the U.S., it was nearly impossible to find trays, let alone the muro that is needed to house them, before this prototype.</p> <p>In the lab, my ferments have the terroir of the fallen oak, still very much alive in the transformation of the final product. Microbes that proliferate on a substrate inside my cedar muro field their own microbiome. I ferment hot sauce in a charred oak tub, shoyu in a white cedar kioke and koji in white cedar trays.</p> <p>In the food and beverage world, chefs and restauranteurs, brewers and distillers get most of the credit for the beautiful tastes that enhance our most precious life experiences and social interactions. Other trades, terroirs and cultures have a lasting impact on that taste. If you explore deep enough, you can unravel a truly fascinating story.</p> <p><em>Explore fermentation in <a href="https://www.ice.edu/newyork/career-programs/school-culinary-arts">Culinary Arts</a>, <a href="https://www.ice.edu/newyork/career-programs/school-pastry-baking-arts">Pastry &amp; Baking Arts</a>, or <a class="link--round-arrow" href="https://www.ice.edu/newyork/career-programs/natural-gourmet-center" target="_blank">Health-Supportive Culinary Arts at ICE.</a></em></p> Fermentation Culinary Technology Lab Food History <div class="row align-center blog--comments"> <div class="column small-12 medium-10 large-8"> <section> <h2>Add new comment</h2> <drupal-render-placeholder callback="comment.lazy_builders:renderForm" arguments="0=node&amp;1=22356&amp;2=field_blog_article_comments&amp;3=blog_article_comment" token="FgTUVYo3OLKblKDt-vo6K10hmpKrrr_kdHAfMy1yyEk"></drupal-render-placeholder> </section> </div> </div> Wed, 27 Jan 2021 20:37:11 +0000 aday 22356 at https://www.ice.edu