Pastry & Baking Arts

Tips from Vegan Chefs for Grilling Meat Alternatives

abaker — Wed, 02 Aug 2023 13:00:00 +0000

Tips from Vegan Chefs for Grilling Meat Alternatives abaker Wed, 08/02/2023 - 09:00 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/NGI-Vegan-Burgers-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=r5UOoMtW You don’t have to commit to a fully vegan BBQ to put these plant-based grilling tips to work. August 2, 2023 Pamela Vachon — Food and Travel Writer (Culinary, ‘11)

Chances are you’ll put something plant-based on the grill this summer, regardless of whether you eat vegan, vegetarian or run-of-the-mill omnivore, and whether you’ve dabbled in the Impossible and Beyond, or even if you just threw on some ears of corn on the grates to accompany your conventional burgers or steaks.

Vegetables and alternative proteins can absolutely shine on the grill, but they don’t behave the same way meat does, and deserve special treatment to maximize their flavor and texture. I consulted two vegan chefs featured in the mini-documentary “A Better Plant-Based Future,” Lemmel Durrah, who brings a plant-based soul food approach with his Compton Vegan, and Kale Walch, who operates Minneapolis’s The Herbivorous Butcher, along with his sister Aubry. Between them, they offered these six tips for upping your vegetable and meat-alternative grilling game.

Well Done Isn’t Necessarily Well Done

When it comes to meat alternatives like Impossible or Beyond burgers, or even homemade veggie patties designed to be eaten between the buns, the number one mistake people make is simply treating them like they are beef burgers. Texture and flavor are still the goals, but these can often be achieved with less time and heat.

“I think people cook plant-based foods for too long on the grill,” says Durrah. “[They] don’t have to be on the grill as long as meat.”

“It's a common mistake to cook it like animal meat,” concurs Walch. “You assume you have to heat it in order to kill bacteria, but you can eat vegan meat right out of the package. I cook it low and slow or very fast on high heat just for the sear flavor.” For lower and slower grill cooking, use the upper grate that’s further from the heat source.

Take Risks with Marinades

Marinades are typically made with a combination of liquids like soy sauce, juice or oil, and seasonings such as aromatics, herbs and spices. Marinades are a great way to infuse your foods with flavor by seasoning them and/or tenderizing them ahead of time before they ever hit the grill.

Related Reading: The Key Component to Any Marinade

Grilled veggies take on a lot of flavor from the grilling treatment alone, but this doesn’t mean they can’t also benefit from additional flavoring. Walch is adamant that such marinades aren’t only useful for meats, and can help get the most out of vegetables: “I'm of the opinion that people don't take enough risks with marinade,” he says. “They can get stuck doing the same thing, so branching out and trying a new sauce for vegetables can elevate the grilling experience.”

Related Recipe: Mushroom Tacos with Balsamic Lime Marinade

Same goes for alternative proteins such as tempeh, tofu or seitan. When treated accordingly these can achieve texture and flavor that can convert even your most carnivorous friends: “I've also been grilling tofu cutlets that have been marinated for a long time after pressing them,” says Walch. “They're like a sponge and retain the flavor of the marinade really well, and the char from the grill accentuates that.”

Try Dry Rubs Also

Dry rubs aren’t just for chicken and ribs either. A concentrated mix of spices, salt, sugar and zest can bring big barbecue energy to plants and plant proteins alike, and can create the kind of crust or bark that is associated with the best executed barbecue.

Related Reading: How to Amplify the Flavor of Plants

There are endless variations on dry rubs and Walch encourages experimentation, but hints that his signature dry rub has two necessary ingredients: “It always has brown sugar and orange zest. From there, you can do just about anything, but that's a good base. It gives it a fresh citrus kick and some sweetness.” Smoked paprika can also help tease out additional smokiness from the grill proceedings, or even give a grilled vibe if your barbecue gets rained out.

Oil the Grates

If you are working with a dry rub over a marinade, however, it’s important to recognize a procedural point of order. “When it comes to grilling vegetables make sure you oil the grates prior to cooking your vegetables or they’ll stick to the grill,” says Durrah.

Vegetables don’t have the natural fat content of certain cuts of meat, so you have to give them a helping hand in that department. And the slightly sticky texture of plant-based meat alternatives, conventional or homemade, makes them susceptible to sticking also.

Whether you are starting with a cold or hot grill, the best practice for greasing your grates is to use paper towel dipped in a high-heat, neutral oil and apply using tongs.

Think Inside the (Farm Share) Box

There are usual suspects when it comes to grilled vegetables, and it doesn’t take a vegetarian sorcerer to get those right. “Corn on the cob and portobello mushrooms are perfect for grilling,” says Durrah. But he also recommends eggplant, which can even be done whole to develop complex flavor and texture perfect for turning into a smoky dip or spread.

“People often make the mistake of grilling asparagus. It's not very good...I'm just kidding,” says Walch. Vegetarians and carnivores alike agree, grilled asparagus is all that.

Take that asparagus confidence into just about any vegetable. Even whole heads of sturdy lettuces like romaine can be grilled for a warm, smoky salad. Basically if it’s in the farm share box, it’s fair game for the grilling treatment. See what you can get into with things like kohlrabi, beets and artichokes.

Don’t Forget the Fruit

According to both vegan chefs, fruit belongs on the grill as much as its other plant-based counterparts, and can offer grilled character to many components to a meal.

“The best thing I can think of that can get overlooked for grilling is fruit,” says Walch. “Grilled peaches are the epitome of summer food, but you can play around with all sorts of [others].”

Take the fruits of your grill and make sauces, salsas, side dishes or to really put a (grilled) cherry on top of your summer plant grilling game, dessert.

Related Reading: 7 Surprising Ingredients You Can Grill

Vegan Vegetables Vegetarian Grilling

Add new comment

Chef Penny's Pistachio and Jelly Doughnuts

crose — Thu, 08 Jun 2023 13:00:00 +0000

Chef Penny's Pistachio and Jelly Doughnuts crose Thu, 06/08/2023 - 09:00 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/pistachio-jelly-doughnut-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=CpN29WyQ She uses flavors of Sicily as inspiration. June 8, 2023 Carly Rose — Social Media Assistant

In an episode of Epicurious' Pro Chef vs. Home Cook, Pastry & Baking Arts Chef-Instructor Penny Stankiewicz shares her recipe for Sicilian pistachio and calamansi jelly doughnuts.

Sicilian pistachio and calamansi jelly doughnuts — a mouthful to say, but delicious to eat. Chef Penny's recipe combines rich caramel and the bright citrus flavor of calamansi to create an indulgent desert with a light finish.

Starting with a classic brioche dough, these doughnuts call for four individually prepped additions: Sicilian pistachio pastry cream, caramelized pistachio, calamansi jelly and calamansi caramel glaze. Plan to make this dish over the span of two days, or with enough time to let the dough chill before adding fillings and toppings.

Watch the video below to see the techniques used to make this dish, and check out the recipe for detailed ingredients and baking instructions.

Study Pastry & Baking with Chef Penny at ICE New York.

Chef Penny's Sicilian Pistachio and Calamansi Jelly Doughnuts

Yields approx. 1 dozen doughnuts

Brioche

Ingredients

Sponge

9 grams instant yeast
120 grams whole milk
50 grams sugar
100 grams all-purpose flour

Dough

100 grams double flour
215 grams all-purpose flour
5 grams salt
100 grams whole egg
20 grams egg yolk
175 gram softened butter
1 lemon, zested
Peanut oil for frying

Directions

Warm milk slightly to take off the chill. Do not overheat or it will harm the yeast. Add yeast, sugar and flour and mix to a paste. Let this mixture sit at room temperature for 30 to 60 minutes.
Add the sponge to the bowl of a stand mixer. Add whole eggs and yolk and mix to combine. Add flour and salt, and mix with the dough hook on speed 2. Allow the mixture to knead to develop the gluten, about 8-10 minutes.
With the machine still running, start to add the softened butter a tablespoon at a time, until all of it is completely incorporated. Continue mixing until there are no more traces of butter.
Place dough in a bowl more than twice its size that has been coated in a thin layer of oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the dough sit at room temperature for 90 minutes. If it’s cold, it may need more time. When the dough has doubled in size, remove the dough from the bowl and place it on the counter top. When it’s about double in size, gently deflate it, and place it in the refrigerator overnight.
The next day, place chilled dough onto the counter with a sprinkling of bench flour. Roll it to about 1/2 inch thick. Use a 2 1/2 inch round cutter to cut out doughnuts. Place on a parchment-lined sheet that has been sprinkled with flour, and it allow to proof at room temperature for 60-90 minutes or until doubled in size. It is ready when you gently press the dough with a finger and the indent remains.
Set up a frying station with either a Dutch oven or deep fryer and sheet pan with rack on it or a plate lined with paper towels. Heat peanut oil to 350 F. Gently place the doughnuts into the hot oil, making sure not to overcrowd the pan. Fry, turning them, until golden brown on both sides, about 2-3 minutes per side. Rely more on your eyes for timing. Remove and place on the rack or towel-lined plate to cool.

Sicilian Pistachio Pastry Cream

Ingredients

200 grams Sicilian pistachios
2 tsp pistachio oil
465 grams whole milk
120 grams granulated sugar
58 grams corn starch
1 egg
4 egg yolks
60 grams unsalted butter
1 vanilla bean

Directions

Toast the pistachios in a 325 F oven until lightly golden.
Remove and place in a blender or food processor. While still warm, puree pistachios adding oil as needed to create a smooth paste.
Place the scraped vanilla bean, half the milk and half the sugar into a medium sauce pan, and bring to a boil.
In bowl, combine the rest of the milk, sugar, whole egg, yolks and cornstarch. Whisk it all to combine. Temper the eggs into the hot milk mixture. Place back in the saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a whisk. When it’s thickened, stop to make sure there is at least one lava-like bubble. Then cook for one more minute, stirring constantly.
Take off heat and stir in the butter. Transfer to a sheet tray in a thin layer and cover with plastic wrap, which should touch the surface. Place in the refrigerator to cool.
Add 150 grams pistachio paste to cooled pastry cream. Transfer to a pastry bag with a dough filling tip.

Caramelized Pistachio

Ingredients

100 grams Sicilian pistachios
150 grams granulated sugar
2 grams lemon juice

Directions

Make a dry caramel with the sugar by heating a small sauce pan and adding the sugar and lemon juice. Stir constantly until it has melted and turned golden brown.
Stir in the pistachios and pour out onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. Allow to cool.
Break into large shards with the end of a rolling pin and place into a food processor. Pulse carefully to process into crumbs.

Calamansi Jelly

Ingredients

4 grams powdered gelatin
180 grams calamansi puree
10 grams sugar
2 vanilla bean scraped

Directions

Add sugar to puree. Sprinkle gelatin over the top and allow it to bloom for about 5 minutes.
Microwave in short bursts to melt the gelatin. Do not boil.
Add vanilla bean seeds.
Place in the refrigerator to set.
When set, use an immersion blender to soften texture to be able to pipe.

Calamansi Caramel Glaze

300 grams granulated sugar
3 grams lemon juice
300 grams calamansi puree
2 vanilla bean, split

Make a dry caramel with the sugar and lemon juice.
Add the calamansi puree and vanilla bean and cook to 265 F. Keep warm to dip doughnuts.

To Assemble

Place the jelly in a small piping bag. Place pastry cream in a piping bag, fitted with a filling tip. Make sure glaze is warm.
Fill doughnut with a small amount of the jelly, trying to get it dispersed evenly.
Fill doughnut with pastry cream, waiting to feel the resistance. When a small amount comes out, you know it's full.
Dip doughnut in warm glaze and top with pistachio caramel crumbs.

More donut goodness: Lemon Meringue Pie Doughnut Recipe

Recipe Desserts Baking Arts Pastry Arts Epicurious

Add new comment

How to Approach a Composed Cheese Course

aday — Thu, 01 Jun 2023 13:00:00 +0000

How to Approach a Composed Cheese Course aday Thu, 06/01/2023 - 09:00 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/composed%20cheese%20header.jpg.webp?itok=DVRLHDpY Award-winning pastry chef and ICE creative director Michael Laiskonis describes his creative process for designing a Petit Basque dish. June 1, 2023 Michael Laiskonis — Creative Director

I’ll admit that even as a pastry chef, sometimes the last thing I’m looking for in a “last course” is something sweet. While I think it’s important to always save room for dessert, I’m often swayed by the alternative of a composed cheese course. At the very least, I may even squeeze the cheese in before dessert!

From a creative perspective, a composed cheese plate allows an exciting opportunity to straddle the line that separates sweet from savory. The cheese is the star of the show, of course, but the accompaniments we choose can play an important role as supporting actors. I often try to start with a palette of basic tastes – sweet, salty, bitter, acid – as inspiration and follow that with spice or heat; the balance of these elements will, of course, be determined by the flavors offered by the cheese.

To demonstrate this approach, we could start with a favorite of mine, Petit Basque. Produced in the French Pyrenees, it’s a semi-firm sheep’s milk cheese that is nutty, earthy and occasionally accompanied by just a hint of funkiness. For one, it’s formed into diminutive cylinders and is firm enough to cut into clean slices, which lends itself well to a plated composition. As I start to explore the range of supporting flavors at my disposal, I really need to look no further than the region the cheese hails from – the vibrant Basque country that incorporates parts of France and Spain.

I love the notion that what grows together, goes together, so when I think of the south of France and northern Spain, I’m immediately drawn to flavors like fig and almond. The richness of the Petit Basque could stand up to a hint of spice, so a smoky pimenton is an obvious choice. For some complex acidity, I love the classic gastrique – essentially a caramel made with vinegar – and a bright peach vinegar would add even more interesting fruit notes. Confit lemon peel adds a final sweet-bitter-acid touch that helps tie all the components together.

As soon as the flavors begin to come into focus, I’m already thinking of what form they might take. While some cheeses are special enough on their own to not require much fussy treatment, our milky Petit Basque begs for a bit more compositional flair. The fig is cooked down into a pate de fruit and sliced in a long, thin base. Salty Marcona almonds are presented both unadorned and fashioned into a crunchy shard of praline. A line of the smoked paprika allows the guest to play with different heat levels in each bite. And after a few drops of the sweet-sour peach gastrique, a peppery nasturtium leaf becomes the final garnish.

A composed cheese plate not only enhances subtle nuances of its noble subject but also affords a chance to flex our culinary muscles to elevate such pairings and to customize a range of complementary flavors and textures.

Petit Basque: Fig, Almond, Peach, Pimenton

For the Petit Basque:

Fig Pâte de Fruit (recipe below)
Marcona Almond Praline (recipe below)
Peach Vinegar Gastrique (recipe below)
Confit Lemon Peel
Spanish Pimenton
Marcona Almonds, whole
Nasturtium Leaf

For the fig pâte de fruit:

200 grams fig purée
50 grams apricot purée
30 grams sucrose (1)
4 grams yellow pectin
210 grams sucrose (2)
40 grams glucose syrup
3.5 grams citric acid

For the Marcona almond praline:

56 grams unsalted butter
85 grams sucrose
12 grams glucose syrup
12 grams water
40 grams Marcona almond (roasted and salted), coarsely ground

For the peach vinegar gastrique:

125 grams sucrose
75 grams water
30 grams peach vinegar

For the fig pâte de fruit:

In a heavy saucepan, combine purées and heat to 40 C/104 F.
Combine first measurement of sucrose (1) and pectin and whisk into purées. Bring to a boil, stirring continuously.
Add remaining sucrose (2) and glucose. Cook to 106 C/223 F. Remove from heat and stir in citric acid.
Pour into a plastic-lined 12-centimeter square frame and allow to set.

For the Marcona almond praline:

Melt the butter in a small heavy saucepan. Remove from heat and stir in sucrose, glucose syrup and water. Cook, stirring occasionally until the mixture reaches 150 C/300 F.
Remove from heat, stir in almonds and pour out on buttered parchment-lined half-sheet pan or marble to cool and harden.

For the peach vinegar gastrique:

Combine sucrose and water to moisten in a small saucepan. Cook to a very light caramel color.
Remove from heat and slowly add vinegar. Return to heat and cook to dissolve any hardened bits of sugar. Continue to cook to 105 C/221 F. Allow to cool.

Train with award-winning pastry chefs in ICE's Pastry & Baking Arts program.

Cheese & Dairy Pastry Arts Chefs Recipe

Add new comment

Buttery, Flaky, Irresistible: Viennoiserie

ajohnson — Wed, 22 Mar 2023 18:52:05 +0000

Buttery, Flaky, Irresistible: Viennoiserie ajohnson Wed, 03/22/2023 - 14:52 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Red%20striped%20croissant%20header.JPG.webp?itok=40Rp0GhT ICE chefs demonstrate how to laminate dough for the perfect croissants, Danishes and puff pastries March 22, 2023 Sam Warford

Do you love a flaky, delicate croissant? Or a sticky, sweet Danish? Meet your favorite pastry category: viennoiserie.

Today, Pastry & Baking Arts students at ICE have the opportunity to learn and adopt the traditional techniques of viennoiserie, which go back almost a millennium to its origins in Vienna.

The most recent viennoiserie day at ICE LA was led by Pastry & Baking Arts Chef-Instructors Carrie Smith and Jürgen David.

“It’s a beautiful art,” Chef Carrie says.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Institute of Culinary Education (@iceculinary)

Unlike crunchy, heartier yeasted doughs, viennoiserie breads are typically on the sweeter side, with well-known examples including cinnamon rolls and brioche. Viennoiserie relies on a particular process known as lamination, in which dough is either kneaded and pressed into sheets by hand or, for larger-scale productions, with a sheeter machine. The layers of dough are then folded over, separated by a layer of butter in what are known as envelope folds. These folds encase the butter so that it may give rise to the pastries once they are baked.

But first, the sheeted dough is placed in a proofing drawer at just below 90˚F for two hours. This creates a humid environment for the dough to rise while keeping the butter at the proper temperature to prevent it from oozing out the sides or hardening within, preserving the layers.

“It’s a wonderful day for students and for the chefs,” Chef Carrie says. “It’s also a day that requires close attention to structure.”

For instance, a traditional Danish recipe requires more sugar than a croissant, and may even include the traditional Scandinavian spice cardamom. A Danish is also glazed in simple syrup to make it moist and give it a tantalizing shine.

A croissant, on the other hand, is typically crunchier and possesses an airier, honeycomb consistency thanks to the absence of eggs. There are, of course, variations of all these pastries, as Chefs Carrie and Jürgen made a red striped, bi-color croissant with a raspberry filling. The color design denotes the type of filling — for example, a green stripe may indicate a pistachio cream filling.

Read More: A Brief History of the Croissant

Once the pastries are puffy and proofed, into the oven they go.

The pastries always come out of the oven to much fanfare. In addition to being delicious, the students’ hard work on creating the viennoiserie sweets makes them highly Instagrammable.

“The slice when you get to see the honeycomb of layers is everyone’s happy moment,” Chef Carrie says.

Pastries aren’t the only thing that must rise to the occasion, as students are expected to meet the demands of a fast-paced and high-volume production of a professional bakery. Coordination on the line is crucial to get the pastries glazed in butter and drizzled in icing before they are boxed up for distribution.

Flaky, buttery viennoiserie pastries are sure to delight students, chefs and customers around the world. That’s why this lesson, which teaches both technical skills and teamwork, is a crucial part of the ICE curriculum.

Plus: the pastries pair perfectly with a hot cappuccino.

Recipe: Croissant Cinnamon Rolls with Homemade Filling

Pastry Arts Baking Arts Culinary Technique

Add new comment

Everyone Loves Pizza Day at ICE

ajohnson — Wed, 01 Mar 2023 21:41:06 +0000

Everyone Loves Pizza Day at ICE ajohnson Wed, 03/01/2023 - 16:41 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Pizza%20Day%20header.JPG.webp?itok=pczky071 ICE students make pizza and share their work with everyone on this much-beloved day March 1, 2023 Sam Warford

Everyone (staff, faculty and students alike) loves pizza day.

Pizza, whether viewed as a refined classic flatbread or vehicle for meat, cheese and sauce, is a cornerstone of the culinary landscape in the United States.

Fittingly, it also serves an important role in the Pastry & Baking Arts curriculum at the Institute of Culinary Education.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Institute of Culinary Education (@iceculinary)

Pizza has been enjoyed in Italy and beyond in different shapes and forms for thousands of years. Nothing brings people together like pizza, and at ICE, students make pizza from scratch in order to learn about the timeless art that goes into this crowd favorite.

The leavened flatbread has been topped with a variety of cheeses, garlic, herbs and dates since the age of antiquity. In ancient Persia, it is even said that these flatbreads were baked atop warriors’ shields between battles.

Surprisingly, tomatoes were not incorporated in the dish until the Spanish brought tomatoes to Italy from the Americas during the 16th Century. The classic Neapolitan pizza was first made with fresh basil, mozzarella and sweet and acidic tomato sauce during the 18th Century for the arrival of the Queen of Italy in Naples. Its creator, Raffaele Esposito, wanted to present a dish that represented the colors of their country — green, white and red.

Related Reading: Homemade Pizza Tricks

Today, this delicious flatbread is being taught and reimagined at ICE Los Angeles. In order to simulate a day in a busy pizzeria or restaurant, students prepare and bake made-to-order pies for the ICE faculty and staff.

Working on the line, students cut and prep ingredients, shape dough, cook pies and then deliver them to the staff. On pizza day, the ovens are occupied for hours as students continually prep and bake — sometimes more than 50 orders per class block. Topping options often include meats such as prosciutto, bacon, pepperoni, and vegetables like jalapeños and bell peppers.

Once service has ended, the students have the opportunity to award themselves with a pie of their very own. They just have to make it first.

Through this process, ICE students are shown that cooperation, cleanliness and organization in the kitchen and a personable customer experience are key to the success of any chef or restaurant.

Plus, everyone gets their own custom pizza. ICE LA loves pizza day.

RECIPE: Chef Sim's Pro Pizza Dough

Pizza Pastry Arts Career

Add new comment

A Brief History of the Croissant

abaker — Mon, 30 Jan 2023 18:19:05 +0000

A Brief History of the Croissant abaker Mon, 01/30/2023 - 13:19 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Breads-Croissants-HERO.png.webp?itok=gqScA4Cj Learn all about the iconic Viennese-turned-French pastry January 30, 2023 Marissa Xiong

Rich, flaky and the perfect complement to your morning cup of coffee, the croissant is the quintessential French pastry. But how did the croissant come to be?

To celebrate National Croissant Day, we’re taking a deep dive into the history of the croissant, complete with input from ICE’s Director of Pastry Research & Development, Chef Jürgen David.

Across various accounts of croissant history, most sources agree that it originates from Austria as the kipferl. Made from a yeasted wheat dough, the kipferl is a baked bread roll common in Central Europe. Records state that the kipferl has been around as early as the 13th century, but many believe it may be even older. Popular myths attribute its invention as a celebration of the Ottoman Empire’s defeat in the Battle of Vienna; the crescent shape represented the moon on the Ottoman flag.

“These stories are almost certainly untrue,” Austrian native Chef Jürgen says.

Regardless of the kipferl’s origins, it would migrate to France later in the 19th century.

In another common legend, Marie Antoinette is said to have introduced the kipferl to French court, homesick for foods from Austria. While it’s a romantic story, there are no historical records to back up this retelling.

The earliest recorded introduction of the kipferl to France occurred in 1839, when Austrian artillery officer August Zang founded a Viennese bakery in Paris. Parisians fell in love with the kipferl (and with Viennese baking as a whole), and imitated the bread in their own shops. The name "croissant" also began appearing in historical record, referring to the crescent shape of the bread.

In 1915, Sylvain Claudius Goy recorded the first-known French version of the croissant recipe. Instead of brioche dough, as August Zang used, Goy transformed the recipe to use a laminated yeast dough. Lamination involves folding butter and dough to create thin, flaky layers of pastry.

And thus, the iconic French pastry we know and love today was born.

Read More: The History of Crêpes

Most of us today are familiar with frozen croissants, accessible at grocery stores, bakeries and restaurants. They're a relatively new invention born of innovation.

As technology modernized, the Sara Lee corporation in America pioneered a method to freeze croissant dough for shipping in 1981. The frozen dough only needed to be quickly baked before serving. This allowed businesses to employ unskilled labor and for people to make croissants at home with ease.

Through its many evolutions, food experts and historians agree that the croissant has become a uniquely French pastry. The French government even named it as the national French product in 1920.

Many other countries also have their own spin-offs of the croissant. From Spain’s cream-filled Xuixo to the American fast-food croissan’wich, it’s truly a staple of modern global cuisine.

Chef Jürgen, who learned pastry arts in Vienna, Austria, is a croissant connoisseur.

“When I worked in Switzerland, my job was to roll the croissants in the morning and it was the best thing,” he says. “I’m a big fan of anything laminated. There’s not really any special tricks, and it’s fun to roll out all the layers.”

His favorite is a good old-fashioned curved croissant, plain and simple. As he puts it: “I just love making — and eating — croissants.”

Baking Arts Pastry Arts

Add new comment

ICE Makes 5-Foot Cake for "The Phantom of The Opera’s" 35th Broadway Anniversary

ajohnson — Sat, 28 Jan 2023 01:48:59 +0000

ICE Makes 5-Foot Cake for "The Phantom of The Opera’s" 35th Broadway Anniversary ajohnson Fri, 01/27/2023 - 20:48 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Phantom%20of%20the%20Opera%20Cake%20header.jpg.webp?itok=GnGovpsH The Broadway cast of The Phantom of the Opera stands next to Chef Jürgen David's 35th anniversary cake Chef Jürgen David and student volunteers worked for over a week on the show-stopping cake January 27, 2023 Anna Johnson — Content Manager

The Institute of Culinary Education's Director of Pastry Research and Development Jürgen David loves “The Phantom of the Opera.”

Chef Jürgen is a super “phan” in every aspect of the word. He estimates he’s seen the show at least 200 times and has listened to the soundtrack more times that he could ever count.

“The show means a lot to me,” Chef Jürgen says. “My entire family had to listen to the cast highlights album forever and ever and ever on repeat at the loudest possible volume.”

That’s why, when he and ICE got the chance to make a show-stopping cake for the Broadway production’s 35th anniversary, which will be its last one on Broadway, he jumped on it.

“I’m extremely honored that I was able to do this and I was able to help and celebrate,” Chef Jürgen says. “I have the highest respect for the people that put this stuff together on a daily basis to have audiences come and enjoy the show. So much work goes into this and we can’t take that for granted. It’s beautiful.”

Chef Jürgen and student volunteers with the completed cake.

After also making cakes for the show’s 25th and 30th anniversaries, Chef Jürgen knew he had to make a cake that was dramatic while still being easy enough to transport.

“From having had the cake on stage last time, I learned a lot about what the needs are for when the cake needed to be on stage this time,” Chef Jürgen says. “I was trying to get something as big as possible without a large footprint, because there is zero space backstage where they can keep things. It was really a struggle to make sure that thing was going to be upright like that. But we figured it out and it came together.”

Meet Chef Jürgen

Armed with his love for the show, a majestic plan and the help of lots of ICE student volunteers, Chef Jürgen created a 5-foot devil’s food cake with dark chocolate ganache.

The project was a team effort. It also brought multiple students from different ICE programs together. Students from programs such as Pastry & Baking Arts, Plant-Based Culinary Arts and Restaurant & Culinary Management worked right alongside Chef Jürgen to bake, pipe frosting and sculpt the cake masterpiece.

“The help of the students was tremendous,” Chef Jürgen says “Without them I couldn’t have done that.”

In total, the cake took over a week to make. During that time, any student volunteers who weren’t familiar with “The Phantom of the Opera” became very well acquainted with the iconic musical.

“We had a good time,” Chef Jürgen says. “We watched the 25th anniversary performance like about twelve times while we were working. Nobody minded. We were like ‘Should we watch it again?’ YES.”

The final product was colored a deep black and adorned with the phantom’s iconic mask and gold letters reading “35 Years on Broadway.” The cake stood completely upright when it was wheeled out onstage during the show’s curtain call on Jan. 26.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by The Phantom of the Opera (@phantomopera)

Still clad in costume, Ben Crawford, the actor who plays the titular phantom, read a special message to celebrate the anniversary.

“Thirty-five is a big birthday. And a big birthday requires a big cake,” Crawford said. “And tonight, we are lucky to have just that. This special phantom showpiece was created by Chef Jürgen David.”

As the cake was rolled out, Chef Jürgen’s name was met with thunderous applause and cheers from the audience.

“Yes! Chef Jürgen David!” Crawford cheered.

Chef Jürgen, who was in the audience watching the whole thing, was touched.

“To have Ben Crawford say that, I’m a superfan, to say my name right and all the things, it’s just glorious,” Chef Jürgen says. “I love this show so much, everything about it is just magical and wonderful and I just can’t get enough of it.”

“I love this show so much, everything about it is just magical and wonderful and I just can’t get enough of it.”

The Broadway show is set to play its final performance on April 16. It is the longest-running show in Broadway history and has spawned many regional translations that will continue to play in countries around the world, even when the Broadway show closes its doors.

Though the moment is very bittersweet for Chef Jürgen, he’s hopeful for the future.

“I’m so sad it’s closing,” he says. “But, hopefully there will be more reiterations of the show and we get to celebrate more. I certainly want to celebrate the final performance in April.”

In the end, Chef Jürgen’s masterpiece of cake was his way of creating and sharing the same magic “The Phantom of the Opera” has given him over the years. It just so happens that instead of melodic, Chef Jürgen’s magic is delicious.

More from Chef Jürgen: Buchteln Recipe (From His Mother's Cookbook)

Cake Cake Decorating Students

Add new comment

A Sweet-and-Savory Quick Bread to Match the Season

abaker — Fri, 20 Jan 2023 16:48:51 +0000

A Sweet-and-Savory Quick Bread to Match the Season abaker Fri, 01/20/2023 - 11:48 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/banana-quick-bread-HERO.png.webp?itok=gxFWyB4t Chef-instructor Penny Stankiewicz draws inspiration from winter produce to give banana bread a new twist January 20, 2023 Cory Sale

The Institute of Culinary Education has teamed up with GrowNYC for a monthly series highlighting a seasonal ingredient at the farmers’ market.

Since winter's peak produce includes root vegetables and storage crops, this month, we’re focusing on the humble sweet potato.

After a visit to the Union Square Greenmarket, Pastry & Baking Arts and Art of Cake Decorating Chef-Instructor Penny Stankiewicz created a recipe highlighting the classically savory root vegetable, with a sweet twist: Chef Penny used sweet potatoes to give her banana bread a new, earthy flavor profile.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Institute of Culinary Education (@iceculinary)

“Sweet potatoes are a great palate for warming spices, maple syrup and ginger, and they have a little sweetness on their own,” Chef Penny says.

Her recipe for Bourbon Sweet Potato Quick Bread incorporates a nutty cinnamon swirl and is topped with a bourbon glaze.

It can easily be adjusted based on what’s in your pantry and your flavor preferences. Chef Penny likes how pecans pair with sweet potato, but feel free to swap it with any other nut or remove entirely. Want to add whole wheat flour? Replace 15% of the all-purpose flour with whole wheat to give the cake some nuttiness and added nutritional value. (A word to the wise: Don’t replace the all-purpose entirely, or the bread will be too dry.)

Chef Penny also encourages bakers to always purchase whole nutmeg and grate it fresh; avoid ground nutmeg as it loses its essential oils and flavor quickly. This recipe also incorporates maple syrup which gives moisture and flavor to the cake. Look for darker and robust grades that are packed with flavor.

Happy baking!

More from this series:

Bourbon Sweet Potato Quick Bread

Yield: One 9”x3” loaf cake

For the Cake:

285 grams roasted sweet potatoes (one large or two smaller)
145 grams roasted banana (about 2 medium) 
1 ounce roasted fresh ginger, grated
30 grams maple syrup
 110 grams white sugar 
2 eggs 
125 grams unsalted butter, melted
15 grams vanilla extract
25 grams bourbon whisky
255 grams all-purpose flour 
1 gram (or 1/2 teaspoon) ground allspice 
1 gram (or 1/2 teaspoon) ground nutmeg 
5 grams ground cinnamon 
5 grams kosher salt
5 grams baking powder

  For the Swirl: 

60 grams light brown sugar 
10 grams cinnamon
 80 grams pecans, finely chopped
Pinch of salt

For the Glaze: 

50 grams confectioner’s sugar
5 grams bourbon whisky 
5 grams vanilla
15 grams maple syrup
 Pinch of salt

Preheat oven to 375˚F.
Quarter the sweet potatoes and cut ginger in half. Toss with a small amount of neutral oil and place cut side down on a parchment lined sheet tray.
Place bananas, whole and with skin on, on the same tray. Poke a few holes in the bananas to allow steam to escape.
Roast for about 25 minutes or until the sweet potatoes are very tender. Bananas may turn black before the sweet potatoes are done. Remove the bananas when they are fully black. Allow them to cool completely.

For the swirl:

Mix all ingredients together and reserve.

For the Cake:

Preheat oven to 350˚F.
Remove the skin from the cooled sweet potatoes and mash with a fork to get the required amount. Repeat with the bananas.
In a large bowl, big enough to fit all ingredients, combine the maple syrup, sugar, eggs, melted butter, vanilla and whisky. Add mashed banana, ginger and sweet potatoes and set aside.
Combine flour, spices, salt and baking powder then whisk together just to combine.
Add flour mixture to the wet ingredients and fold with a spatula until the dry ingredients are incorporated. The batter is thick, so avoid over-mixing or the cake can become tough.
Prepare a 9x3” loaf pan by spraying it with pan release and lining it with one piece of parchment that covers the bottom, and comes out over both long sides.
Add half of the batter to the prepared pan. Make a slice in the batter down the center, and fill with some of the swirl mix. Add the remaining batter on top, and repeat the slice down the center, and fill with swirl mix.
Using a knife, chopstick, skewer or similar tool, swirl the batter with the swirl mix incorporated, in a few simple strokes. Avoid touching the bottom of the pan. (There may be some left-over swirl mix. Use it to top your cake if you like.)
Bake for approximately 70-75 minutes, or until a skewer comes out clean. Allow to cool completely.
Remove cake from pan.

For the Glaze:

Stir together all ingredients to make a thick glaze. Add as much or little as you would like, pour on top of the cake or drizzle as preferred when cake is completely cooled.

Recipe

Add new comment

Recipe: Foolproof Sugar and Gingerbread Cookies

ajohnson — Thu, 12 Jan 2023 00:39:04 +0000

Recipe: Foolproof Sugar and Gingerbread Cookies ajohnson Wed, 01/11/2023 - 19:39 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Holiday%20cookies%20header.JPG.webp?itok=QTCEtLWZ Get photos and recipes from ICE LA's cookie decorating days January 12, 2023 Anna Johnson — Content Manager

ICE Los Angeles students, faculty and staff celebrated the holiday season in true culinary school fashion — by baking and decorating lots and LOTS of cookies.

The baking bonanza kicked off with a Holiday Cookie Baking and Decorating Deep Dive led by Chef-Instructor Norma Arellano-Salazar and Lead Chef-Instructor Missy Smith-Chapman on Saturday, December 10. Many students from multiple ICE programs arrived on campus, decked out in their finest “ugly” holiday sweaters and got to baking.

On the menu were gingerbread and sugar cut-out cookies, all adorned with a variety of sprinkles and other edible decorations. From snowflakes to reindeer, many winter-themed cookie creations were made (and eaten) during the four-hour Deep Dive event. The cookie doughs were all pre-made by faculty members, and are solid, all-purpose recipes that are great cookies for any time, not just the holidays.

Chef Salazar decorating cookies

More from Chef Salazar: Mexican Wedding Cookies

Next, on Friday, December 16, ICE LA’s staff and faculty members came together to bake their own cookies. The staff members were primarily tasked with portioning, cutting out cookies, and decorating the cookies, all while being guided and taught by ICE’s knowledgeable Chef-Instructors.

Staff and faculty members also held their own "ugly" sweater contest, with real prizes at stake. Standouts were Admissions Support Coordinator Stephanie Asavapibhop's hand-crocheted sweater and Christmas tree hat combo, Senior Admissions Representative Jeff Haines' gift-wrapped present and Assistant Dean of Students Bridget Vickers' handmade ornament-bedecked ensemble (which won her first place in the contest).

Since the best part of the holiday season is being able to give to others, and ICE made sure that many of the cookies were given away. In total, the ICE staff made over 7,000 cookies and were grateful to donate nearly half of them to Union Station Homeless Services in Pasadena.

Get the recipes for the tried-and-true sugar and gingerbread cookies below.

Sugar Cookies and Gingerbread Cookies

Yields approximately two individual recipes' worth of dough

For the sugar cookies:

1 egg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 teaspoon fine salt
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup granulated sugar
8 ounces butter, cubed and kept cold

For the gingerbread cookies:

8 ounces butter
7 ounces sugar
1 egg
1/2 cup molasses
2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon cocoa powder
1 tablespoon ground ginger
2 teaspoons ground cloves
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

For the sugar cookies:

Whisk together egg, vanilla extract, salt and almond extract in a bowl and set aside.
Combine flour, baking soda and baking powder in another bowl and set aside.
In a food processor, process the sugar for about 30 seconds, until the sugar is super fine.
Add cold butter pieces into the food processor with the sugar and process for 30 seconds and then scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatula.
Process for about 30 more seconds until the dough forms into a ball.
Add the mixture of egg, vanilla extract, almond extract and salt into the food processor bowl and process for 10 seconds.
Add the dry flour, baking soda and baking powder mixture and process for 30 seconds or so, until no pockets of flour remain. The dough should look crumbly.
Place dough on a work surface and knead for a few seconds until it comes together.
Divide the dough in half. Flatten both halves out on individual sheets of parchment paper and place in a refrigerator to chill.
When ready to bake, preheat oven to 300°F.
Pull out half of the dough and roll out to 1/4-inch thick. Using cookie cutters, cut out desired shapes from the rolled out dough and place on parchment-lined sheet pans.
Bake each tray at 300°F for 14-17 minutes, until lightly golden.
Once done, let the cookies cool completely before decorating with royal icing and sprinkles.

For the gingerbread cookies:

Sift all of the dry ingredients together in a bowl and set aside.
Cream the butter, sugar and eggs together in the bowl of a stand mixer with a paddle attachment.
Once combined, add molasses to the bowl and scrape down the sides with a rubber spatula. Add dry ingredients into mixed and mix until just combined. The dough will be somewhat stiff.
Turn out the dough onto a sheet of plastic wrap, flatten and wrap completely. Store in a refrigerator overnight.
When ready to bake, preheat oven to 350°F.
Unwrap the dough and roll out to 1/4-inch thick. Using cookie cutters, cut out desired shapes from the rolled out dough and place on parchment-lined sheet pans.
Bake at 350°F for about 10 minutes. Do not over bake.
Once done, let the cookies cool completely before decorating with royal icing and sprinkles.

Prepare to make more than 30 kinds of cookies in Pastry & Baking Arts.

Cookies Pastry Arts Recipe ICE Instructors

Add new comment

Making a Case for Concord Grapes

abaker — Wed, 19 Oct 2022 18:11:22 +0000

Making a Case for Concord Grapes abaker Wed, 10/19/2022 - 14:11 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/laiskonis-concord-grape-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=UZLh0fS9 They're the reason for the season. October 20, 2022 Michael Laiskonis — Creative Director

In my mind, nothing marks the transition from summer to fall quite like Concord grapes.

Just as the crisp chill in the air, the slow retreat of daylight hours and the subtle turn of the foliage all signal the arrival of autumn, there are flavors that also reflect the shift of the seasons.

While apple, pear, quince — and, yes, pumpkin — will eventually fill out seasonal dessert menus for the months to come, the appearance of the Concord grape is a bit more fleeting.

It’s easy to argue that most of what we call ‘table’ grapes that are available year-round — whether red or green — don’t pack much of a punch in the flavor department. That’s why the late September arrival of plump purple Concords make for a sweet, tart and juicy welcome as summer berry season fades into memory. This is the essence of ‘grape’ flavor we associate with everything from jelly and juice to candy and soda.

This is the essence of ‘grape’ flavor we associate with everything from jelly and juice to candy and soda.

Pastry chefs tend stock up on these intense flavor bombs when in season and are often fashioned into desserts that draw from a subtle sense of nostalgia.

More Recipes: Chef Penny's Concord Grape Tart

The Concord grape is a unique variety bred from native North American grapes, notably the wild Vitis labrusca. Its origin dates to 1849, after an intensive trial led by Ephraim Wales Bull on his farm in Concord, Massachusetts. The new grape hit Northeastern markets in 1854, quickly gaining favor, winning awards and earning a reputation abroad. It is said that cuttings from Bull’s original vines fetched upwards of $1,000.

The Concord enjoyed increased popularity in the next decade, when Dr. Thomas Welch began producing an unfermented grape juice utilizing the recently developed concept of pasteurization. By 1900, Welch’s fledgling juice empire was processing 300 tons of grapes a year. The union of grape jelly and peanut butter that would become a school lunch staple began to gain traction in the 1920s.

Today, over 300,000 tons of Concord grapes are grown each year in the United States. New York is second in production, just behind Washington State.

Crafting Concords into components sweet or savory requires some degree of effort. Hidden under the thick “slip-skins” and juicy pulp are hard stubborn seeds that must be removed. Crushing the grapes or buzzing them in a blender is simple enough; the real chore ends up being the patient passing through a sieve or cheesecloth to produce a skin and seed-free pulp.

The reward is worth the rigor. One might stumble upon a seedless Concord now and then, but I almost see the requisite crush-and-strain exercise as a comforting ritual of the season. Beware, however, that the errant drops of juice instantly leave behind a dark purple (and near permanent) stain.

With this year’s crop, I’m seeking to rework and refine a classic dessert — cheesecake — with a seasonal punch-up of Concord grape.

A light cream cheese mousse spiked with a touch of lemon fills in for the rich and dense texture of traditional cheesecake. The pillow of mousse is set on a Graham cracker sablée and concealed in its center is a core of liquid Concord grape. The whole is sprayed with a thin, velvety layer of white chocolate and accompanied by a grape sorbet.

Concord Grape & Cheesecake Mousse

Yield: approximately 15 individual desserts

For the Concord Grape Coulis

150 grams Concord grape juice
½ gelatin sheet, hydrated
25 grams invert sugar
(Total weight: approximately 180 grams)

For the Cheesecake Mousse

3 sheets gelatin
50 grams cold water
110 grams sucrose
1 gram salt
100 grams unsalted butter, softened
225 grams cream cheese, softened
60 grams crème fraiche
40 grams lemon juice
300 grams heavy cream (36% fat)
(Total weight: 885 grams)

For the Graham Cracker Sablée:

80 grams unsalted butter
125 grams graham cracker crumbs, finely ground
13 grams potato starch
80 grams confectioners’ sugar
2 grams salt
75 grams egg whites
90 grams all-purpose flour
(Total weight: 465 grams)

For the Concord Grape Sorbet:

10 grams sucrose (1)
2 grams sorbet stabilizer
95 grams water
55 grams sucrose (2)
25 grams glucose powder
10 grams dextrose
5 grams invert sugar
250 grams Concord grape juice
(Total weight: 450 grams)

For the White Chocolate Spray:

250 grams white chocolate, melted
250 grams cocoa butter, melted
Purple colorant (fat soluble), as needed

For Assembly:

White chocolate decor

For the Concord Grape Coulis:

Place the grape juice in a saucepan. Gently bring to a simmer and remove from heat.
Whisk in the gelatin and invert sugar. Deposit the mixture into 3cm silicon hemisphere molds and freeze to set.

For the Cheesecake Mousse:

Hydrate the gelatin in the full measurement of water. Gently heat to dissolve and reserve.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, combine the sucrose, salt and butter, creaming the mixture well. Slowly add the cream cheese, occasionally scraping down the sides of the bowl. Follow with the addition of the crème fraiche, lemon juice and dissolved gelatin.
Fold in the whipped cream and deposit into 70cm silicone ‘stone’ molds; insert into each one of the frozen half-spheres of Concord grape coulis. Top with additional mousse as needed, level and then freeze.

For the Graham Cracker Sablée:

Combine the butter, graham cracker, starch, confectioner’s sugar and salt in a food processor and pulse until combined. Add the egg whites and continue blending until incorporated.
Transfer the mixture to a mixing bowl and stir in the flour by hand.
Sheet the dough between two half sheet-sized pieces of acetate and freeze.
Transfer the dough between two silicon baking mats set on a flat pan. Bake at 150°C/300°F just until set, 5-7 minutes; remove the pan from the oven and cut 75mm discs. Return to the oven to continue baking until lightly browned, 8-10 minutes.

For the Concord Grape Sorbet:

Combine the first measurement of sucrose and stabilizer. Reserve.
In a saucepan, heat the water to 50°C/120°F. Whisk in the stabilizer mixture, the second measurement of sucrose, glucose powder, dextrose and invert sugar. Bring just to a boil and remove from heat.
Chill and allow the syrup to mature at least 4 hours.
Combine the juice and syrup and process in a batch freezer; extract the mix at -5˚C/23˚F. Alternatively, transfer to PacoJet canisters and freeze; process as needed. Continue to harden the sorbet at -18˚C/0˚F as necessary.

For the White Chocolate Spray:

Combine the white chocolate, cocoa butter and desired color and transfer to an airbrush or paint sprayer and apply a thin layer onto the frozen and unmolded portions of cheesecake mousse. Return to freezer until ready to serve.

For Assembly:

Remove the portions of cheesecake mousse from the freezer and set onto discs of the baked graham cracker sablée. Allow to temper under refrigeration.
When ready to serve, plate the cheesecake mousse, top with white chocolate decor, and finish with a small scoop or quenelle of Concord grape sorbet.

Ready for more fall recipes? Check out Chef Barry's fall vegetable recipes and read his advice on how to make the most of the season's bountiful produce.

Desserts Fall